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Thread: Hi to you all some advice please

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    4

    Hi to you all some advice please

    Hi i have just got my first Range Rover 4.6 p38 1995 190000klm seems all good been looked after well. I can do all the normal staff to service it. But would anyone recommend doing anything else to keep her running good. Like adding different oil for older engines or adding additives to the oil to protect it better. Would you spray anything on the engine to protect the rubber hoses or the wiring. Anything you can think off that would help keep her running good. Should i spray anything on the the rubber suspension things lol.
    Thanks
    Shaun

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    79
    Hi Shaun, not sure you need to coat any rubber bits, best to try and separate any that are rubbing. Air bags I lift up and hose around to get sand out but that's about it. I change oil at 20,000 and plugs every 40,000 and mines done 354000 and still ok. Hope you enjoy the car, you will be amazed at what it will do...in style.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,398
    G'day mate

    Welcome to the madness

    Get hold of a copy of the service schedule, there are a few things like Uni Joint and Tailshaft spline greasing which should not be neglected! Also there was a recent discussion about regular cleaning of the MAF

    I use Penrite oil with the extra zinc which is apparently better for our cam followers, I also change it every 10,000 kms

    For the door rubbers etc I use a rubber treatment and for all the plastic etc I use 303 aerospace protectant.

    Regards
    Steve

    PS : I found the service schedules

    service_1.jpgservice_2.jpg
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    657
    Welcome aboard Shaun, I also have been using penrite oil for the last 10 years of ownership and had no problems, the only thing I'd add is to keep an eye on your temperature and if it starts to increase address the issue immediately. Good Luck Mate!
    2000 4.6 HSE Alveston red
    2007 307 xse peugeot
    1974 xj6l jaguar

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,456
    G'day and welcome to P38 ownership mate!

    As mentioned above, Penrite oil seems to be a good thing for these motors. I use Penrite HPR 5 in mine, and it usually only gets 3,500km between changes (every 6 months or so). It's at 240,000km.

    Theres not a lot aside from the usual grease and oil stuff that needs to be done to these old girls. If you keep an eye on the suspension system you'll be a happy man. If you notice it starts to sag overnight, or is continuallt adjusting to stay level after about 10mins of driving, it might be time to check the compressor and bags over, and look around for leaks. If it's very slow to raise on a regular basis, usually it's the compressor, but keep in mind it takes a good volume of air to lift it up from access height in the morning, and that's assuming the tank is not empty to begin with.

    Keep your shafts greased, change the diff/transfer oil every 40,000 and the transmission fluid every 10,000 and you should be on a good thing. I am making it a habit to clean the MAF every time I change the air filter.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Brisbane West
    Posts
    4,522
    If you do city runs largely then every 5k will see a very long life motor assuming cooling system is good and runs cooler than stock. I am happy to pay for good quality oil every 5k. If largely highway then 10k is fine.

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,456
    I forgot to mention earlier, Crankshaft Position Sensors (CKP) usually die around the 200,000km mark in our beloved P38's too!

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,398
    One more thing

    Open up the under bonnet fuse box and have a look at the condition of RL6 and RL7, the two relays in the front right position

    If they show any signs of heat stress, replace them ASAP

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    123
    All good advice, but I would add one more thing. Make sure the radiator is functioning correctly. And you can't just go by how it appears to flow. A restricted radiator is the most common cause of overheating the motor and destroying the heads in the P38. I would seriously consider overhauling the radiator on an annual basis as it is not uncommon to find it is significantly restricted after only a year after a flush. There may be good replacement radiators available now, others here will know.
    When I purchased a 1999 P38 in NZ about 8 or so years ago (sight unseen, but I knew the owner and the company only wanted $1,500!) the mechanic who regularly serviced it (very well) said the radiator appeared fine and flowed well. But because I had seen many P38 radiator failures I insisted he get it flushed. He was completely surprised that it turned out to be 30% restricted.
    2013 D4
    1993 LSE HS2.8 (in hospital)
    1966 Army engineering trailer
    1976 SIII diesel tray (farm ute)
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
    Posts
    2,121
    How do you guys "flush" a radiator. I've never managed to flush anything from radiators. I've pulled the tanks off old downflow radiators, and not been able to pass even a hacksaw blade through the tubes (that were jamned solid). If it's a modern plastic tank radiator.... it's a throw away item.

    Can you get a proper radiator made up for them rather than the aluminium/plastic tank junk ? That way it can be cleaned out in the future (though I must admit, it's amazing how cheap some of those new radiators are).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

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