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Thread: EAS question.

  1. #1
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    EAS question.

    Hi all, I know this is a sticky subject, but I have questions that I've not had to ask before. I have unlock and have cleared faults . It will depressurise the tank, which is getting air, pump ran 20 mins without switching off. I used shop air to put as much as I dared , reconnected and still nothing. I try to make it go to a height setting, nothing. No clicks or anything. My question is. If the computer card attached to valve block was no good ( swapped, dodgily prior to purchase) would I get faults on unlock. I've got no fault on dash, but four lights on dash. When I bought the car , we raised it up with pump. Only a few inches and that was it using unlock. I've done my other car too many times to count so I am familiar with it. I have just rebuilt the valve block and reassembled pump ( pit brass bush back in its holder) and reassembled it all. Fuses and relays are all good. Again no faults at all on unlock . Dean

  2. #2
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    Hi Deano,

    If the EAS dash lights are still all on it indicates that you have not succeeded in clearing the error codes. Is this what you mean by "four lights on dash"?
    It's hard to diagnose from this distance(!) but I suspect you may be right in suspecting either the valve block controller or perhaps the EAS computer. I'd also be suspicious of the thermal cutout. Has the compressor been overhauled?
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Hi Deano,

    If the EAS dash lights are still all on it indicates that you have not succeeded in clearing the error codes. Is this what you mean by "four lights on dash"?
    It's hard to diagnose from this distance(!) but I suspect you may be right in suspecting either the valve block controller or perhaps the EAS computer. I'd also be suspicious of the thermal cutout. Has the compressor been overhauled?
    hi mate, yeah pump has been butchered in the past too. i just swapped a good piston from an old spare i had that was near new. two of the four threads to bolt the valves on top were stripped so i had to tap and find two new bolts to reassemble it. it pumps much harder now. i did notice a burn mark on on of the pins in the pump plug but it runs on eas and crossing pins in the fuse box. the tank gets pressure but doesn't seem to want to raise any springs with ignition on or off. there is no engine in car yet, but don't think that should matter.thermal cut out might be a drama too i guess but no way to test it. once engine is built and goes in i can swap everything from my other p38 into this one , so not tragic would just like to get it going again...cheers.

  4. #4
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    The EAS ecu in the Body Control Module will be expecting an input from the engine, handbrake and door switches. Probably other inputs I've forgotten about, too. This will almost certainly be causing your problems. Frankly, I'd go ahead and fit the motor and get everything plugged in correctly before worrying about the EAS.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  5. #5
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    I am pretty sure the eas will only move the vehicle with the engine running, I think it needs a reading from the crank angle sensor before it will activate, I know because when my flex plate shattered the after market diesel engine kept going but the computer shut down the eas because it wasn't getting a crank angle signal so assumed the engine was off.

    I would go ahead and fit the engine, it may well cure the problem
    P38 Range Rover , the best car in the world, when it's working

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyrangie View Post
    I am pretty sure the eas will only move the vehicle with the engine running, I think it needs a reading from the crank angle sensor before it will activate, I know because when my flex plate shattered the after market diesel engine kept going but the computer shut down the eas because it wasn't getting a crank angle signal so assumed the engine was off.

    I would go ahead and fit the engine, it may well cure the problem
    hi again guys, DieselLSE and finallyrangie thanks for the info. I suspected there must be another reason. i will put the motor back in and see what happens. I will keep you posted on progress.

    Deano

  7. #7
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    Finallyrangie is correct - the motor needs to be running for the EAS to operate as usual. It will only lower to the bump stops on command if the motor is off.

    As always, doors need to be closed and feet off the brakes to allow suspension movement as well.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    2002 P38 Range Rover HSE

    Sequential LPG - Redarc Charger - TPMS - Ashcroft Locker
    Wheel Carrier - Bullbar & Spotlights - 285/75/16 BFG KM3’s
    On Board Solar - Stainless Snorkel - 2” Suspension Lift

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Finallyrangie is correct - the motor needs to be running for the EAS to operate as usual. It will only lower to the bump stops on command if the motor is off.

    As always, doors need to be closed and feet off the brakes to allow suspension movement as well.

    Cheers
    Keithy
    Just FYI, I being interest in this case....I'm not young...this is a shot of the fuse box I just replaced...better starting point now me thinks.

  9. #9
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    Standard issue RL7 burn marks ;-)

  10. #10
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    You could also buy (or make) one of the emergency kits for the EAS as well if you don't already have one.

    EAS Emergency Inflation Device - Air Suspension - Range Rover P38 1994 to 2002

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