Eas issues.

I'm not sure what the perfect height settings are but I've posted a picture 2 pages ago of all my settings and all my live settings

There’s no “set numbers” when it comes to each height. There are “ranges”, which if you go outside, the ECU will default into fault after you input.

Your numbers look about normal. Mine are varied, similar to yours.

When a calibration is done, blocks are placed on the axle pads, bump stops removed, and at each height the car is lowered onto the blocks, the values at those heights are then input, and job done.

Cheers
Keithy

Hi guys
Was hoping for a good outcome today.
Replaced both front hieght sensors today brand new sensors at 500.00 .thinking it was going to sort out the on going problem.
No luck ,continues to do the exact same thing.no fault on nanocom..
Surely somebody must know how to fix this on a p38?
I'll try to post a video once again if anyone can help please ??

All signs point to the driver unit in my opinion. Once they go, strange things happen mate.

I know yours is only 3yrs old, but it’s also been subject to a lot of heat.

Find someone who has a known working spare one and try it out. It will show you straight away if it’s the problem. You’ll throw money at it for months to come otherwise, and wifey will get the ****s!

Cheers
Keithy

Before going any further, please refer to the very first reply to this thread.
If I were you, if you have already checked properly for leaks, I'd be suspecting the valve block before trying anything else.

It's easy to get caught up delving deeper and deeper looking for other issues trying to solve a problem, when it is probably a valve block o ring issue.
The tiny o rings on the 3 non return valves can get pinched, or become unseated and cause exactly these issues, that would be my first suspect.

Keithy may well be be correct about the driver unit, but as a first step, checking the valve block will at the very least give you a good starting point.
I think you can just take off the non return valve section without disturbing anything else.
The diaphragm is very delicate and can be damaged easily, don't open that section up without having a replacement, I always put a new one in if I need to open that section up.

If you do the valve block and find it is still playing up, then I'd be looking at the driver unit next.
I know it can be very frustrating trying to diagnose eas issues, but when you get it sorted, it is almost an anti climax, it will just start working properly once again.

I would add that it is frustrating as I know, Pete is right,
double check that the valve block o rings on the non return valves are not pinched and in good condition......if needed I am happy to send you a good driver unit to try...this unit has been sent to 2 members and sorted their problems....I'm happy to pay postage, just return it when finished....PM me your address and I'll send it Monday.

Jim

Thanks for the support guys.
Ill go back to the valve block i might of made a mistake when i rebuilt it .i might take you up on the offer jim if i have no luck.
It did this before i rebuilt it;thats why i rebuilt it.? Can you just buy the kit for the exhaust.

Just double check the o rings are seated properly.....I inadvertently pinched one putting them back together....the tiny one in the NRV and it certainly made it dance.
If you have no luck let me know and I'll send you a driver unit ...we can go from there.
Ive also heard of the driver unit connections being grotty or corroded...Good Luck

Jim

Dear All,
Can anyone tell what was the end of this story?
Thanks,
José