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Thread: P38A Audi Heater core replacement - HELP!

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    P38A Audi Heater core replacement - HELP!

    Hello! I have been lurking on the forums for the past couple of weeks, but had a question so thought I would sign up!

    So I started getting the wet footwell on my 2000 p38a (Bosch engine approx 120,000km), and it got worse and worse to the point coolant was constantly leaking out onto the ground behind the front RHS wheel, and I was topping up the coolant before each drive. So after some reading I ordered replacement O-rings. A couple of hours work and $5 worth of rings, I thought - Great!!!

    After pulling out half of the interior dash to get to the heater core, I could see someone had done the same job before (the heater vents were already cut and duct taped back together, and an access hole had been drilled in the side of the center console. Great! (I thought) This will be easier than expected!

    Once I got to the heater-core and removed the annoying, almost stripped single screw, I started to get the feeling the issue was worse than just the o-rings. I was right! Big crack in the core. Back to the drawing board (and reading over the forums), I came across the Audi conversion and thought I would give that a go, avoid the clumsy single screw LR design all together. I ordered all the parts (audi core, 5/8th hose, hose clamps, converters) but looking at it again, I just don't feel comfortable getting the old core out and new one in (steering column, wiring harnesses etc).

    In the process of draining the coolant I also managed to accidentally break the nipple for the overflow hose on the radiator - all the plastic on this car seems to be old and brittle! Ordered a new radiator, then realised it is near impossible to replace without removing the viscous coupling fan - which of course requires a 36mm spanner which I didn't have on hand. I am now waiting for this tool to arrive, and was thinking I will just replace the rad and bypass the heater core for the time being.

    Can anyone recommend someone in the Sydney area who could help with the heater core conversion job? I have all the parts now, but just don't feel confident pulling out the dash to do the core myself. (I would be fine with the shortcut method too, but just don't feel confident in doing it myself!). I understand this could take quite a few hours of labor and would cost accordingly, but I would be happy to work with someone to lend a hand doing it!! Any help or direction would be appreciated on this. I am feeling a bit lost/stuck with it all.


    And then once that's sorted I can start trying to find the small EAS leak.. Ahhh, the joys of p38 ownership!

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    26,805
    How I did mine (I was also replacing the dash top):

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    What have I been doing this weekend?



    After getting it in, and all buttoned up, it leaked. This is what I found after pulling it out:

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    My new heater core:

    The heater core can be replaced reasonably easily providing you don't follow LR's instructions. I had to do it after getting yet another core.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #3
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Feb 2013
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    Gosford, NSW, Australia
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    I have done this as well, but as per Rons pics, you do not have to remove the steering column

    The brittle plastics thing can be painful!

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  4. #4
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Also once you have the heater box out, check that the flaps all move freely. I found that the old grease had hardened and was causing extra friction, I found that Inox would dissolve the old grease so I used that i combo with a toothbrush etc to remove as much as i could. I then gave all the pivot points a small squirt of lithium grease.

    No problem with burnt out blend motors since then ! (fingers crossed)

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    sydney
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    This is a bit late, but about your snapped radiator overflow spigot, no need for a new radiator...others have driilled out the snap-off and araldited the threaded end of a (Bunnings) barbed brass airline fitting in.
    Also,the next time Aldi offer their cased bicycle tool set, buy it...for $30 it includes a 32+34 36+38 multi fit flat spanner just right for any water pump or fan belt you will come across. Any one of those sizes will cost you more than that at Repco and it's a tool you should own. Note! The p38 v8 fan is Right-hand thread! Put a pizza box between the fan and the core.

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