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I never actually checked the difference in input and output temperature myself so I cannot say if the difference you notice is normal. I do know however that the top hose nearly always get's hard when heated up, even when I was driving at -27c and no my engine was a brand new rebuild at that time so no leaking cylinders. So, I find it strange that it would not get hard in your case.
The maf sensor can be a source of trouble but also check the temp sender in the airbox. Mine is currently out of whack somehow, it always reports a temp which is 12-20c lower than actual. Never got around to replace it though.
Regarding the cruise control: which unit do you have? If you have an older p38 you'll likely have the silver box which is crap and fails often, upgrade it to a black unit from a newer P38 or a D2 and you're golden. Easy fix too, does need wiring a new plug in though.
see: Retrofit D2/Bosch P38 Cruise Control ECU into D1/GEMS P38 - DiscoWeb Message Boards for example.
Cheers!
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Ok..another update 😀
the temps seem to be under control after the new stat went back in, full flush and no air locks and now after a drive the difference from above to below the stat is noticeable but not extreme as before. Fingers crossed!
now the next issue lol...it won’t cold start and keep running without some throttle applied. I wound on a bit via the throttle cable to overcome this. Once it’s been going for a few minutes it’s all fine and starts normally. Still have occasional high low idle issues so I think they may be related? Have done the maf clean and the iacv and tps clean. Maybe a temp sensor issue? Any ideas?
will look at the cruise issue as mine is an early p38 so thanks for the tip.
I definitely need to find someone close by with a code reader so if anyone is near or around the murwillumbah,tweed head Byron area that has one please let me know. Would appreciate some fault codes on this lovely beast 😀
cheers
Gaz
ps I’m not lazy...I’ve been reading on these now for weeks and learn new stuff all the time but this idle thing is just annoying and I need some expert help 😊
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Having something to measure with would be very helpful.:) The idle thing can me a number of things, incorrect air intake temp could be the case but false air can cause even more trouble. The easiest way to test this is to create a plug that can fit into the air intake (remove the maf for this) with an air hose connected to it, pressurize the air intake and listen for leaks and fix each and every one of them. Alternatively I have used a smoke generator with a T piece to insert smoke under pressure into the system and see where smoke escapes. PCV, throttle body, anything you can find that is after the MAF will be air into the system that is not measured by the MAF but will faul the O2 sensors and will cause the ECU to adjust incorrectly.
Funny thing: I have the exact opposite. When the car is really hot, that is to say, warm day and has been driving in a traffic jam for a while the engine tends to stall and I can't figure out what the problem is :( Oh well...:)
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3 Attachment(s)
So, just a quick update 😀
i decided to change the stat position to the housing in the inlet on the front of the motor. Put an 82 degree stat in...that was the easy bit. Then I spent 3 hours drilling, filing, cursing, bleeding and generally testing patience limits to extract all the internals from the original housing (seized stat). Eventually all was cleared and the housing in tact so I saved a bit of cash by using it rather than a fancy alloy adapter 😁. (See pics)
Filled her up with coolant and plugged in the obd scanner then went for a drive. She now sits at 84 degrees even in traffic or pulling a 2.5 tonne excavator 😁.
Well worth the effort.
also put in a new idle valve and that fixed the erratic idle problem.
next on the list is to eliminate a bit of a steering wobble over bumps...mmm not looking forward to tracking that down!
Attachment 142814
Attachment 142818Attachment 142819
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You are one patient guy :)
The wobble should not be too hard to find, starting from the steering damper and work your way through the suspension bushings with a large crowbar or some large calipers to see if there is any play, also check the ball joints.
good luck!
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my doughs also on steering damper,,
once you get your head around how LR blends it coolant to keep a constant temp, it all makes sense.
sort of[bighmmm]
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Hi All 😀,
so im back and subscribed after finding out why I couldn’t post anymore lol.
quick update...
the Beast hasn’t had any temp issues since relocating the stat woohoo.
the poor running is now fixed and turned out to be a few things but the main culprit was a pair of bad O2 sensors. Replaced with new ones and now runs sweet and average of 15ltrs per 100kms 👍.
i have a couple more issues...one is still a non working cruise control but will try and find a new pump and diaphragm , change those, check the line near the brake pedal ( when I can even find it lol) and then look at the cruise ecu.
other issue I’ll start a new thread.
thanks again and great to be back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
prelude
welcome back mate ;)
thanks mate! Good to be back and still loving the old beast
