Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 28

Thread: running in my new 4.6 thor v8 drama

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,514
    Unless youíve bled a P38 cooling system before it can be quite daunting.

    The engine needs to be at operating temp before you worry, otherwise the thermostat wonít open and youíll end up with air locks.

    1. Fill system
    2. Start engine (coolant reservoir cap off)
    3. After 30sec, hold engine revs at 2000, steady
    4. Once thermostat begins to open (and if radiator is empty), youíll need to begin topping up the coolant reservoir. Donít let the level drop below the coolant reservoir and into the hose
    5. Fluctuate revs from 1500 to 2500 sharply
    6. Once mostly bled, the level in the reservoir will rise rapidly. When this level begins to rise rapidly, shut engine off, hopefully not spilling coolant out the top.
    7. Let the engine cool for 10mins and repeat sequence 3 times. Itís important to fluctuate the revs sharply (and do it from the engine bay, not in the cab).
    8. Once cool, top up reservoir if necessary, replace coolant cap and go for a drive and monitor everything.

    No need to nose up or anything, Iíve always done it on flat ground.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    109

    phew

    thanks guys for all ideas, we tried a few things and it was a combination. firstly, the radiator was 1/3 blocked. secondly and unknown to me at the time, the previous owner had put the bottom o-ring on the overflow cap in the center groove, thanks to MR Automotive for spotting this as i bought a new cap anyway. once both of these things were sorted, she lives. the next thing i found was the indicators on the left side were not working at all, no clicking even, yet the hazards worked all around. found plug into becm was only half pushed in, once seated all worked. only horn to get going now then rego. i did find a small white plug with white and blue wire to it with two black wires out near brake booster, its cut and i have no idea what its for, any ideas would be great.

    again, thank you to all for assistance so far, cant wait to get it going.

    Deano.

  3. #13
    DAMINK Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by deano2469 View Post
    thanks guys for all ideas, we tried a few things and it was a combination. firstly, the radiator was 1/3 blocked. secondly and unknown to me at the time, the previous owner had put the bottom o-ring on the overflow cap in the center groove, thanks to MR Automotive for spotting this as i bought a new cap anyway. once both of these things were sorted, she lives. the next thing i found was the indicators on the left side were not working at all, no clicking even, yet the hazards worked all around. found plug into becm was only half pushed in, once seated all worked. only horn to get going now then rego. i did find a small white plug with white and blue wire to it with two black wires out near brake booster, its cut and i have no idea what its for, any ideas would be great.

    again, thank you to all for assistance so far, cant wait to get it going.

    Deano.

    Glad to hear you found out what that was mate. Would have been a worrying time.

    Not sure on this particular engine but my first thought regarding the plug was the stepper motor plug. Square plug with 4 wires around there.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    109

    update

    Gents, she runs ...pretty well now. i have the odd quirk still. with new radiator and cap, system now holds pressure...sure enough, the weak link was o rings at heater matrix turned to plastic and floor full of coolant...replaced and all good now after a carpet shampoo.I have a TC light on dash and abs failure..i found front sensor away from position by about 10 mm, thought that was problem...no, tested all sensors with multi meter...all the same as far as i can tell, still getting abs fault and tc light on...any idea? i was told a rear had failed so bought a new rear but both sides look the same on meter.. Now i bought a 2 inch lift kit second hand and have installed it all, rebuilt pump, rebuilt valve block. these new bags are not like the ones i m used to. mine originally have a removable collet so you can replace o rings which i went to do , only to find these new ones have a different inlet, with a collet i cant see a way of removing without squashing. i have a bad leak in a front bag through here. if anyone knows the secret to this please let me know.'its really hard to tell if the hose is seated and don't want to re use old bags if i can avoid it. Here are a few pics of high boy...doing brake pipes prior to any off road action, next week probably..

    IMAG1331.jpgIMAG1330.jpgIMAG1329.jpg
    74 rangie 350 chev th700 (gone)
    92 disco (gone)
    96 p38 (gone)
    01 p38 current project
    74 jag 5.4 ford v8 Barra 3v, 5spd (on the shelf project)
    63 wife , they don't make em like they used to.

  5. #15
    DAMINK Guest
    Im loving the look of that car Deano.
    Bars could do with a metal injection but beyond that im liking it a lot!!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by DAMINK View Post
    Im loving the look of that car Deano.
    Bars could do with a metal injection but beyond that im liking it a lot!!
    Cheers DAMINK , I've got a front arb winch bar and winch to go on. It's off a discovery, got it with lift kit...gotta strengthen it up a bit for winch as has been modified a bit to fit p38.. will put up a post when on.
    74 rangie 350 chev th700 (gone)
    92 disco (gone)
    96 p38 (gone)
    01 p38 current project
    74 jag 5.4 ford v8 Barra 3v, 5spd (on the shelf project)
    63 wife , they don't make em like they used to.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by deano2469 View Post
    still getting abs fault and tc light on...any idea?

    ]
    Have you read any Wabco codes with Nanocom or similar?
    It maybe a 'brake switch failure' which can give ABS, TC fault lights. Need to fix switch and reset codes before they disappear.
    HTH
    Steve

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    109
    Thanks Steve, yeah I swapped a sensor that I was told had failed even though it looked OK, still the same, I've got car booked in for check up at MR automotive next week as I've got a knock sensor fail code now too and it's started pinking..I guess I will be spending. Cheers.
    Quote Originally Posted by zzsteve View Post
    Have you read any Wabco codes with Nanocom or similar?
    It maybe a 'brake switch failure' which can give ABS, TC fault lights. Need to fix switch and reset codes before they disappear.
    HTH
    Steve
    74 rangie 350 chev th700 (gone)
    92 disco (gone)
    96 p38 (gone)
    01 p38 current project
    74 jag 5.4 ford v8 Barra 3v, 5spd (on the shelf project)
    63 wife , they don't make em like they used to.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by deano2469 View Post
    Thanks Steve, yeah I swapped a sensor that I was told had failed even though it looked OK, still the same, I've got car booked in for check up at MR automotive next week as I've got a knock sensor fail code now too and it's started pinking..I guess I will be spending. Cheers.
    OK, I just realised you have a Thor engine. I've been knock sensorless on one bank for over 3 years now and no codes come up on my GEMS. Replaced it, and no observable change...

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    109
    Oh, that's surprising. I will have to wait and see I guess, I want to cover off any wiring and sensor issues anyway, especially after rebuild. Thanks mate.
    74 rangie 350 chev th700 (gone)
    92 disco (gone)
    96 p38 (gone)
    01 p38 current project
    74 jag 5.4 ford v8 Barra 3v, 5spd (on the shelf project)
    63 wife , they don't make em like they used to.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!