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Thread: running in my new 4.6 thor v8 drama

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,506
    Unless youíve bled a P38 cooling system before it can be quite daunting.

    The engine needs to be at operating temp before you worry, otherwise the thermostat wonít open and youíll end up with air locks.

    1. Fill system
    2. Start engine (coolant reservoir cap off)
    3. After 30sec, hold engine revs at 2000, steady
    4. Once thermostat begins to open (and if radiator is empty), youíll need to begin topping up the coolant reservoir. Donít let the level drop below the coolant reservoir and into the hose
    5. Fluctuate revs from 1500 to 2500 sharply
    6. Once mostly bled, the level in the reservoir will rise rapidly. When this level begins to rise rapidly, shut engine off, hopefully not spilling coolant out the top.
    7. Let the engine cool for 10mins and repeat sequence 3 times. Itís important to fluctuate the revs sharply (and do it from the engine bay, not in the cab).
    8. Once cool, top up reservoir if necessary, replace coolant cap and go for a drive and monitor everything.

    No need to nose up or anything, Iíve always done it on flat ground.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
    Posts
    98

    phew

    thanks guys for all ideas, we tried a few things and it was a combination. firstly, the radiator was 1/3 blocked. secondly and unknown to me at the time, the previous owner had put the bottom o-ring on the overflow cap in the center groove, thanks to MR Automotive for spotting this as i bought a new cap anyway. once both of these things were sorted, she lives. the next thing i found was the indicators on the left side were not working at all, no clicking even, yet the hazards worked all around. found plug into becm was only half pushed in, once seated all worked. only horn to get going now then rego. i did find a small white plug with white and blue wire to it with two black wires out near brake booster, its cut and i have no idea what its for, any ideas would be great.

    again, thank you to all for assistance so far, cant wait to get it going.

    Deano.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Churchill, Victoria
    Posts
    786
    Quote Originally Posted by deano2469 View Post
    thanks guys for all ideas, we tried a few things and it was a combination. firstly, the radiator was 1/3 blocked. secondly and unknown to me at the time, the previous owner had put the bottom o-ring on the overflow cap in the center groove, thanks to MR Automotive for spotting this as i bought a new cap anyway. once both of these things were sorted, she lives. the next thing i found was the indicators on the left side were not working at all, no clicking even, yet the hazards worked all around. found plug into becm was only half pushed in, once seated all worked. only horn to get going now then rego. i did find a small white plug with white and blue wire to it with two black wires out near brake booster, its cut and i have no idea what its for, any ideas would be great.

    again, thank you to all for assistance so far, cant wait to get it going.

    Deano.

    Glad to hear you found out what that was mate. Would have been a worrying time.

    Not sure on this particular engine but my first thought regarding the plug was the stepper motor plug. Square plug with 4 wires around there.
    Ramblings of a crazy man aka Andrew.

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