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Thread: Cold idle RPM gems V8

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
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    283
    Check on the earthing problem; I will give it some attention and perhaps, indeed, run an old piece of welding cable I have laying around as earth to bypass the body/chassis.

    Regarding the cam: I never looked at it that way I always figured, when wheeling and reaching a tough spot, say a muddy hillclimb, one usually chooses a gear and give it the boot. In those situations I definatly need the power curve to be above 2000rpm. Perhaps I am wrong here? I do notice the car to be sluggish in normal traffic but the 32" tyres combined with the standard diff ratio's does tend to do that anyway. I am not bothered by it really. It could still be though that the cam has too much overlap as suggested.

    And hills? HA! you gotta be kidding me mate we have 2 to be exact and they are not what you would call a hill :P There is the "utrechtse heuvelrug" which is a ridge that was formed during the last ice age.
    Utrecht Hill Ridge - Wikipedia
    as you can see, with 68m at the highest point... not even worth mentioning. A 7% slope is the best I can give you over here Also there is a bit of a hill close to germany and way down in the south, none of them are more than a speedbump I suppose

    The IACV I have right now is indeed a GM unit that fits the GEMS perfectly, except for the connector beeing at a different angle. When funds allow I will try the genuine article. I'll also try and record what the engine does using my faultmate but it seems that the ECU actually closes the IACV once a certain vehicle speed or engine rpm has been reached. Do you know of any such mechanic in the system to, for instance, avoid overspeeding or over idling?

    Cheers,
    -P

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    11,560
    The IACV I have right now is indeed a GM unit that fits the GEMS perfectly, except for the connector beeing at a different angle. When funds allow I will try the genuine article.
    What I am saying is that the order of the wires in the plug may be different, and that when it should be increasing idle it may be decreasing idle. I really would try to get an IACV for a GEMS rather than try using a GM one.

    In a 14CUX my guess is that the IACV closes at 1500RPM, as this is when injector cutoff on closed throttle occurs. I don't really know. As for GEMS I don't know. You could ask the GEMS people in UK if they are still around. In a 14CUX the IACV also opens and closes on shutdown to clean it.
    Regards Philip AI
    just had a google and it suggests tat GEMS is Lucas/Sagem.
    Have you read this LUCAS GEMS (SM001)

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    2,771
    Apart from your immediate problems & slightly off topic I followed your link for the hill.


    Bloody hell! They had a tough old time trying to retain it.


    I dips me lid.


    Utrecht Hill Ridge - Wikipedia

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,515
    I fitted one of the Jeep IVAC units and it did not seem quite right so i went for the correct unit in the end

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    283
    And, last but not least, an update in this thread

    I have not yet had the time (or money, sadly) to get an original IACV BUT! I have found a way around the crap idle and failing exhaust gas test. Since the exhaust gasses are way of when the car is idling but bang on target when at 2400rpm (the two engine speeds compulsory for passing the MOT) I figured the problem is probably in the ECU adjusting way to much at that low RPM. Others here have suggested as much as well. Since the idle rpm needs to be below 1000rpm for the MOT I figured, why not try to get the RPM up? Adjusting the idle screw would probably not make much of a difference I figured since that would not change enough in the ECU's map, I opted to tighten the throttle cable and with that change the TPS. Setting the RPM manually like this to 900rpm the MOT test succeeded so that is that problem solved

    Like the oil leakage and the ETC, I am going to look into the IACV and the idle RPM a bit further when the weather starts playing nice down here. I had my petroleum heater on for the entire day last weekend working on the car and must have burned through at least $50 of fuel...

    Cheers!
    -P

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    2,771
    A while back on here I suggested exactly the same fix for my D1 but was hit with comments of possible problems by others here.

    They haven't eventuated to the best of my knowledge & it has been very satisfactory, but it is too late now to be worrying about because I have traded her in for a Mazda CX-3 MAXX Sport.

    Also glad to see they haven't made the list (yet???) of Keyless Entry theft as per the UK report.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    283
    A quick observation to add:

    My daily driver conked out, fuel pump issues, so I took the range to get to work through heavy traffic. Since I was in a bit of a hurry I just started the car and drove of, never really reaching the point of crawling in idle, which in my mind is something that currently has to be done when cold to make sure it does not stall in idle later on. Once the engine heated up I had to stop for lights and the engine nearly stalled. Stop and go driving with the left foot on the brake and the right on the accelerator was getting real boring real fast though (to keep the engine running) so I turned of at a service station and turned the car of for a few minutes.

    After starting her up and crawl forward for a couple of meters the idle issue was fixed and I got through the rest of traffic no drama's.

    If the IACV is indeed buggered (wrong type) I would not expect restarting the car to fix the problem though I must admit that I tried restarting the vehicle to allow the IACV to reset itself to a default position (it does that when turning the car of for longer than xx seconds)

    With my daily driver eating up funds to get fixed, buying a proper IACV is still on the horizon but I found this to be curious behaviour and thought I'd share

    cheers!

    -P

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