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Thread: P38 not cranking

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    The first port of call with any P38 is to lift the main fuse box cover and look at the main battery terminal (wriggle it and listen for crunchy noises) and the relays and fuses. Once you've identified the starter relay check it's input voltage at terminal 30, bridge 30 to 87 and see if it cranks. 85 should be input from the key and 86 should be the earth path via security and inhibit switches.

  2. #12
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidP38 View Post
    i don't think so, there is nothing in the message centre and the check engine lights up on 2nd possition which would mean its not immobilized right ?
    Not sure about the check engine light, but there should be a message if your message stuff is working

    Immobilisation is pretty common after battery issues, which is why it came to mind

    If you know your EKA code it may be worth trying it !

    Good luck
    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  3. #13
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    the EKA is written in the book, I can try it but so far I'm trying to identify the root cause, the rear demister is not working, well at least the button doesn't light up and the suspension lock button stays on if it's on or off which wasn't doing that before

    i'll probably figure out how to pull the centre console out and look at it first

  4. #14
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    If there are a few things playing up, it may be an earth somewhere. The one behind the side lick panel on the drivers floor, or the ones under the bonnet which earth the Engine ECU

    May be worth giving those a quick check.

    I assume you tried putting power directly to the starter solenoid

    Good luck
    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Brisbane
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    P38 not cranking

    This morning I tried to loop the starter relay and got nothing not even a click, started raining pretty bad so went back inside, next will be to test if there is power going there and then give the starter a tap.

    Where is the starter, does the front wheel need to come off ?

  6. #16
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidP38 View Post
    This morning I tried to loop the starter relay and got nothing not even a click, started raining pretty bad so went back inside, next will be to test if there is power going there and then give the starter a tap.

    Where is the starter, does the front wheel need to come off ?
    Hi mate

    It's kinda down under the brake master cylinder right at the bottom of the engine, it's easier to remove the wheel if you need to replace it, but just to tap it probably not

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Brisbane
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    P38 not cranking

    So had a look at the maxi fuses and the green 30A one is blown ....

    If I bypass it the starter makes a whooshing noise like itís free spinning but not engaging the flywheel... the solenoid must be stuffed or needs a tap but it started raining again so canít crawl under it and I could not really see it, must be behind all the heat shields

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
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    few taps did not fix it, it will need a new solenoid which I have ordered

    will attempt to take it out his weekend

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
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    200
    Quote Originally Posted by DavidP38 View Post
    few taps did not fix it, it will need a new solenoid which I have ordered

    will attempt to take it out his weekend
    Starter has been out, replaced with a new one. It's now midday - how's your's going?
    Here are some shots of how I approach it.
    1)Take off RHF wheel and cut two slits in the plastic guard so you can fold it up to reveal a peek at the upper socket head cap screw and access the spade connector to the solenoid.
    2)I found a short 3/8 extension to a universal and short ratchet drive can be inserted through the small window between the heat shield and chassis rail. The hex drive is 8mm (prob. 5/16). This gives me one click of the ratchet per swing of the drive.
    Best of luck,

    Steve
    '95 HSE
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Gosford, NSW, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzsteve View Post
    Starter has been out, replaced with a new one. It's now midday - how's your's going?
    Here are some shots of how I approach it.
    1)Take off RHF wheel and cut two slits in the plastic guard so you can fold it up to reveal a peek at the upper socket head cap screw and access the spade connector to the solenoid.
    2)I found a short 3/8 extension to a universal and short ratchet drive can be inserted through the small window between the heat shield and chassis rail. The hex drive is 8mm (prob. 5/16). This gives me one click of the ratchet per swing of the drive.
    Best of luck,

    Steve
    '95 HSE
    It takes 5 minutes to remove the guard liner rather than cut it

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

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