Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: P38 not cranking

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    35
    so I jacked the car on stands so I can use the crawler and get under it, spend about 20min degreasing the damn thing so I can see what I'm doing, removed the inner wheel plastic, degreased some more then the rain came and yeah ... will get back to it Sat morning I guess, there was a lot of grit on it, my guess is that if grit gets in or the rear mail seal goes then all that crap plus the brushes wearing (carbon) will make perfect baking for the bendix .....

    thanks for the photo's thats exacty what I needed, the 3/8 drive might not be enough to loosen the stud...I'll see if an impact wrench fits around the spring
    do you know the size of the stud ?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
    Posts
    200

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by TheTree View Post
    It takes 5 minutes to remove the guard liner rather than cut it

    Steve
    Yep, but takes me five days to find and replace all the plastic panel screws which break!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Camp Hill, Brisbane
    Posts
    200
    Quote Originally Posted by DavidP38 View Post

    thanks for the photo's thats exacty what I needed, the 3/8 drive might not be enough to loosen the stud...I'll see if an impact wrench fits around the spring
    do you know the size of the stud ?
    I find an 8mm hex drive is snug. I have checked the thread though and it is whitworth which means that the hex drive for the purist should be 5/16" which is practically the same. I bought new ones and I think they were about 40mm long (sorry, 1 1/2").
    steve

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    35

    P38 not cranking

    Ok so I have got it going...

    The starter was done but the solenoid was gone. The one off eBay apparently was genuine but it is not and the 3 holes donít align so you can barely use two of the 3 screws to hold the solenoid in so will have to source a genuine one.

    Removing was not that hard, you jack it up, disconnect battery negative cable, remove inner wheel plastic shroud, remove front mudguard and use a big lever to bend the exhaust shield to make room to get to one of the studs. I got a 1/2 ratchet there so there is room but one click at a time, then used a 1/4 uni joint drive to take the rest out with the mini Bosch electric rattle gun.

    Changed coolant while at it.

    I guess now I have to find a genuine one, the original were from factory stamped with the Range Rover logo and made in Germany so not bad nor a stock part, 300k is decent.

    Noticed the steering damper is leaking so need to fix that, looked original to me

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,270
    Quote Originally Posted by DavidP38 View Post
    I guess now I have to find a genuine one, the original were from factory stamped with the Range Rover logo and made in Germany so not bad nor a stock part, 300k is decent.
    Cross reference the part number. IIRC, the starter motor is the same as D1 & D2 so decent 2nd hand ones should be easily found.
    Scott

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!