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Thread: nice looking 2001 P38A for the big lap ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Wollongong
    Posts
    7

    nice looking 2001 P38A for the big lap ?

    I've been looking at 50k -60k D4's for towing a 1.6t camper and family around Australia next year.... and then I saw this beauty -

    2001 Land Rover Range Rover HSE Auto 4x4 MY01-OAG-AD-16370964

    Being such a stylish car I am wondering even if I needed to sink another 10k into it would I be driving a reliable car for a 5 month long road trip?? Any opinions? Would it be a headache? I had a petrol chipped V8 1993 Rangie which I stupidly gave away about 8 years ago and miss it!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Avoca Beach
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    11,271
    I would run the other way. Run not walk.
    A transmission could cost 5K-6K
    slipped sleeves another 5K
    Suspension 2k, and so on.
    I would look for a TD5 D2A which you can get for the same money although you still may have auto problems depending on how it has been treated. Try to get one without air suspension and active cornering as they are troublesome in old age.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,347
    As PhilipA says, $10K won't fix a P38 with age and use related issues. I've only met one truly reliable second hand P38 in my years of working on them, and that had around 120K on the odo when I first saw it. At 180K it was stuffed in many delightful ways. I still get to see them occasionally, issuing mournful honking noises from their dash boards, as they querulously complain about their numerous pensioner ailments. And that's nothing compared to the joy of discovering that the ABS pump has become intermittent, giving you about 10% max stopping power if you happen to be built like a sumo wrestler. Or the main fuse box has gone all crunchy around the battery terminal, leading to faint smoke releases at times.

    I must admit though that despite all that they are a nice car to drive, when they actually go (and stop).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
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    2,514
    Iím going to disagree with these two lads for quite a number of reasons. I think that the price is too high though.

    1. A D2 TD5 will cost you more to get sorted. This vehicle appears well sorted and had a great history being a 1 owner vehicle. You can see itís been maintained. No doubts.

    2. It has good kís and the Bosch injection which is much better.

    3. A D2 TD5 is gutless. Leaks oil into injection looms, has amigos to play up, and are known for getting hot when towing big loads.

    4. I have owned 3 P38ís in the last 10yrs, all Bosch ones, and all driven remote places. The first one was written off sadly, but was a pleasurable 20,000kms with no worries. The second one I clocked over 60,000km before I sold it, again no issues, even towed another vehicle back from Cape York in it. I had to replace the air springs, but otherwise it was faultless. I sold it to purchase my current one, which has done 50,000km in the 3yrs Iíve owned it. Itís been to Cape York twice (both times it was the only vehicle without an issue or oil top up on the trip), along with many other remote area trips. 40,000km of this has been on trips, away from civilization, no phone service. Purely a touring vehicle. It lives is low range with the Tyres at 20psi.

    5. The ABS issues mentioned above are rare. Working on vehicles means you only see the faults and services, not the trouble free motoring in between.

    6. The transmissions are strong and reliable. The slipped liners are due to poor maintenance and subsequent overheating, likewise suspension issues are poor maintenance related.

    If youíre looking to buy one, get to know how the systems work, learn how everything operates. If something was beginning to show signs of going wrong, youíll know that something is up and be able to prevent further issues. Buy a good one thatís been looked after and have it checked by someone who knows P38ís (and doesnít instantly dismiss them).

    Ill happily pack my tent and do the big lap tomorrow in mine. No doubts.

    [img]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...019c89c071.jpg[/img]

    Cheers
    Keithy
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
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    249
    +1 to keithy. I have owned my P38 since 2015 and have spent serious money on it I must admit, but most of that was down to: I want that.

    Repairing the P38 electrics can be a bit daunting but other than that, most of the work can be done yourself if you are a bit skilled. That usually chops the repair bill down to a fraction of the cost since most of it is labour.

    Having said that, my experience with the D2 has been similar, oil gets into the loom ruining stuff, the TD5 is a nice running engine, I always had a weak spot for 5 inline's but it's a bit lethargic. The auto box is the same as a P38 I believe? In any case, it's the only part of my car that has not been rebuild and at 210K (including some serious rock climbing and offroading) it is still working just fine.

    -P

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Avoca Beach
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    11,271
    YES BUT!
    The oil in the loom costs about $50 to fix, engine mounts about 200, Fuel Pressure regulator 200, fuel pump, well that is expensive at $500, front driveshaft 500.

    The auto is the question, so maybe look and look to find a manual.

    Overheat? Well I have never had overheating in my RRCs and my TD5. It's called maintenance.

    I looove my TD5 and not gutless again with maybe $1000 spent on it.

    The water pump seems to last much longer than a petrol as it doesn't have any side thrust.

    AND the economy at 10-11Lper100 is a little better than a petrol, where an older one is lucky to get better than say 17lper100KM.
    Regards Philip A
    Look as they are all 16-18 years old these cars are all now in the enthusiastic DIY category. You will go broke with paying for mechanics unless you can do most work yourself. I am getting old now but I still take on **** jobs like changing the engine mounts. I would say unless you can do the work, pay $25K for a Mitsu Challenger , Hilux or whatever to have a much greater chance of not getting stuck somewhere in the bush.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    YES BUT!

    AND the economy at 10-11Lper100 is a little better than a petrol, where an older one is lucky to get better than say 17lper100KM.
    Regards Philip A
    Look as they are all 16-18 years old these cars are all now in the enthusiastic DIY category. You will go broke with paying for mechanics unless you can do most work yourself. I am getting old now but I still take on **** jobs like changing the engine mounts. I would say unless you can do the work, pay $25K for a Mitsu Challenger , Hilux or whatever to have a much greater chance of not getting stuck somewhere in the bush.
    I get 11.3L/100km on the open highway and 16.3 mixed driving mostly traffic little highway but I don't flog it (much)
    Trip to Moreton I had 18L/100km over 250km, that ain't bad with lots of sand driving in low

  8. #8
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Gosford, NSW, Australia
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    2,502
    I think the key point here is that you need to be able to work on them yourself.

    They are roughly 25yr old vehicles so you get a few niggles.

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    24
    you would be stupid to buy a vehicle that's over 10 years old if you can't turn a spanner to the point where you can at least change all the fluids and filters yourself, if you can't do that then pay for your silliness by buying/leasing a new car every 5 years and watch your money burn

    once a car passes the 5 year mark it generally needs:
    1. all fluids changed
    2. all filters changed
    3. new brake disk/pads
    4. new hoses/pipes for complete cooling/oil system inc gearbox etc.
    5. new battery
    6. new tyres
    7. new wipers
    8. possible ball joints, tie rod end replacement
    9. possible bushings replacement
    10. dampers would be shot so new ones would be in order


    I'm sure I forgot a few but this is why after 5 years you see cheap ex-lease cars on the market, all those things aren't done and some chump goes buys one and then complains X car is crap because I had to spend all this money on it

    now add a 20 year old car and you quickly realise that more needs doing if it wasn't maintained properly, in the case of a P38 it would need a gearbox filter change, EAS rebuild kit, diffs would need new seals, airbags would need replacing and quite a bit more like waterpump, rear main seal .... I guess if you want to have a reliable vehicle you can take to a 10.000Km trip in a pinch without thinking twice

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    burpengary
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    Well said, I've come across most issues in owning 2 p38's, one gems and now a Bosch...maintenance is key, you will get the occasional issue but that's the same as any other Japanese brand..or worse American. It's competence will reward you...
    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    Iím going to disagree with these two lads for quite a number of reasons. I think that the price is too high though.

    1. A D2 TD5 will cost you more to get sorted. This vehicle appears well sorted and had a great history being a 1 owner vehicle. You can see itís been maintained. No doubts.

    2. It has good kís and the Bosch injection which is much better.

    3. A D2 TD5 is gutless. Leaks oil into injection looms, has amigos to play up, and are known for getting hot when towing big loads.

    4. I have owned 3 P38ís in the last 10yrs, all Bosch ones, and all driven remote places. The first one was written off sadly, but was a pleasurable 20,000kms with no worries. The second one I clocked over 60,000km before I sold it, again no issues, even towed another vehicle back from Cape York in it. I had to replace the air springs, but otherwise it was faultless. I sold it to purchase my current one, which has done 50,000km in the 3yrs Iíve owned it. Itís been to Cape York twice (both times it was the only vehicle without an issue or oil top up on the trip), along with many other remote area trips. 40,000km of this has been on trips, away from civilization, no phone service. Purely a touring vehicle. It lives is low range with the Tyres at 20psi.

    5. The ABS issues mentioned above are rare. Working on vehicles means you only see the faults and services, not the trouble free motoring in between.

    6. The transmissions are strong and reliable. The slipped liners are due to poor maintenance and subsequent overheating, likewise suspension issues are poor maintenance related.

    If youíre looking to buy one, get to know how the systems work, learn how everything operates. If something was beginning to show signs of going wrong, youíll know that something is up and be able to prevent further issues. Buy a good one thatís been looked after and have it checked by someone who knows P38ís (and doesnít instantly dismiss them).

    Ill happily pack my tent and do the big lap tomorrow in mine. No doubts.

    [img]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...019c89c071.jpg[/img]

    Cheers
    Keithy
    74 rangie 350 chev th700 (gone)
    92 disco (gone)
    96 p38 (gone)
    01 p38 current project
    74 jag 5.4 ford v8 Barra 3v, 5spd (on the shelf project)
    63 wife , they don't make em like they used to.

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