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Thread: EAS fun and games.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    592

    EAS fun and games.

    Hello all, I was having an issue with the eas where the rear was sinking to the bump stops over night (both sides).
    Otherwise it was operating normally, pumped straight back up as soon as I started her up.
    I did the usual soapy water leak checks and couldn't find any.
    It's been nearly 5 years since I rebuilt the valve block, so I thought it was probably time to do that.
    Rebuilt the valve block yesterday, I was very careful and double checked everything.
    The non return valves are definitely in the correct orientation and it has a new diaphragm (that little spring definitely there too).
    Put it all back together, the compressor kicks in as normal, let the compressor do it's thing and closed the door.
    The front comes up, but the rear springs are not doing anything, still on the bump stops.
    I hooked up the EAS unlock program and it is showing no faults.
    Also hooked up my faultmate to double check and still no faults showing.
    The compressor was rebuilt at the start of this year and seems to be operating normally, the system is definitely pressurising.
    I'm suspecting a possible eas driver pack fault, due to the rear losing pressure prior to rebuilding the valve block and that seems to be where the problem still exists.
    But I'd rather not throw parts at it just to see if that was it if possible.
    Does anyone have any suggestions here?
    Thanks, Pete.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    592
    Bit of an update, I've had the valve block out and back in a few times now, checking everything over.
    I checked the non return valves and seals, but they seem to be fine as far as I can tell.
    Have checked the diaphragm and seals, which all seem ok.
    Have checked every seal on the valves.
    I have noticed when I start the engine with the air tank empty, the compressor will run for about 5 or 6 mins, then shut off.
    When I close the door the vehicle does not lift, so I open the door again and nothing else happens.
    For some reason the compressor is shutting off before it should.
    I let it cool down for a period of time and start the engine, the compressor still won't run.
    I can manually switch the compressor on and off using the eas unlock suite.
    Still no faults appearing.
    I'm usually good with this stuff, this one has me stumped!
    Again I'm wondering if it is a driver pack issue, but you would think I'd be getting error messages if that was the case.
    Any suggestions appreciated!
    Thanks, Pete.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    257
    I have read here and there that the drive pack can cause the described issues but it seems to be a corner case. As far as the compressor running: mine does that as well, it runs for a set period of time, usually the tank is up to pressure but the suspension does not move. In my experience there seems to be a certain set of circumstances when the car will not rise, usually this is when I have the suspension override button engaged and the height set to highway. Most of the time my P38 sits still for weeks on end since it is not my daily driver so the air tank and rear left bag is empty by then at the very least. Not sure why it does that...

    In any case, the driver pack should not be involved in any way in running the compressor. Also, if I override the compressor with my faultmate it will run regardless of the pressure. I have not tried to let it run into the over pressure switch. It could be your tank is up to the correct pressure?

    What usually fixes it for me is drive the car a bit, at least fast enough to get the ABS light to turn of and voila, it starts to rise. Did you by any chance try that?

    Cheers,
    -P

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    592
    Thanks for the suggestion prelude, I took it for a spin around the block, sadly it did not start working, but it did throw a fault code.
    I hooked up my faultmate and the fault was 'pressure switch not changing state, constantly high'.
    I've been having a look around for info on this fault, seems that actual pressure switch faults are not very common.
    It could be caused by a weak compressor, also replacing the eas driver pack has been known to fix the issue.
    Has anyone else solved the pressure switch fault?
    Cheers, Pete.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    257
    What you could try is to let air out of the tank and see if the switch is still high. The pressure switch is simply that, a switch connected to the valve block. Measure it with a multi-meter (disconnected from the wiring loom) with the tank under pressure and when empty. It should register as open when the pressure is low and closed when it is high. Since it is plumbed into the valve block it COULD be that some dirt has gotten into it with all the refurbishment work...

    I have had a faulty switch myself, I simply replaced the entire valve block from my wrecker that I had refurbished as a spare. Not sure what caused the switch to fail though I have not gotten around to refurbing this block.

    Cheers,
    -P

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    592
    Thanks again Prelude, I went out this morning and started the engine, still no compressor action.
    So I pulled the air line from the tank (purple one),which had a lot of pressure in it, which indicates the tank is indeed filling, so I'm not suspecting a compressor issue at this point.
    I put the air line back in after letting some of the pressure out, started the engine, and the compressor started operating, which indicates to me the pressure switch is operating as it should, as the pressure in the tank had dropped.
    I'm getting the impression the vales are not getting the signal to open, which makes me suspect the driver pack.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    257
    If you have an oscilloscope you can measure the input side of the driver pack to see if the eas computer sends the pulses to the driver pack, you can then check the output side for (roughly) the same signal. A dual channel scope would be very nice for this purpose. Since the valves are not operated continuously, it would burn the coil, measuring them with a simple volt meter might not give a reliable reading.

    In any case, this is how you can test the driver pack. You can put 12volts on the valve directly, but BRIEFLY and I mean really short since you can easily overload the coils.

    Cheers!

    -P

    Edit: do NOT keep the coil connect to the driver pack when trying to put power on it for testing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,522
    As far as my own personal, and other P38ís Iíve worked on up here goes, these quirky issues more often than not come down to the driver unit failing. They are old vehicles now, and these poor driver units live in one of the hottest environments an electric component should ever live!

    There is someone here (donít quote me on this, but I believe itís Lee from Labtronix) who has successfully repaired these units. If you can get your hands on a known good second hand one, itís a cheap and easy way to eliminate that issue. Even borrowing one is a good option as it can be handed back and youíve not had to fork out much for the option to test it out.

    Pressure switches are very reliable, especially in the clean environment they work here, but are not also a possibility to eliminate, however in your case I donít think itís the issue.

    Anothe thing to check is that the height targets are not too close to each other as these can confuse the ECU. I found this out when I lowered my ďhighĒ height after lifting mine. It was too close to ďstandardĒ and would often tell the ECU it was too close to either target height to make a decision on where it should be.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    592

    SOLVED!

    I'm very pleased to report I have it sorted!
    Thank you very much to Keithy and Prelude for your valuable suggestions.

    You have to approach it in an almost scientific way, think your way though what is going on.
    My compressor seemed to be operating as it should, the air tank was getting and holding pressure as it should, there was pressure present at the inlet to the valve block, so the evidence was pointing towards a valve block issue.
    The driver pack is nearly 18 years old, so I was suspecting a fault there, as the solenoids appeared to not operate correctly, preventing proper distribution of air pressure.

    I got a new driver pack and installed that, which made no difference, so it appeared to be a possible solenoid failure or a possible blockage in the valve block.

    I had a second hand valve block in the shed, so I got another o ring kit and rebuilt that one.
    Swapped all the required parts over from the original valve block to make a working valve block.
    Got that all installed this morning and pressurised the system.
    Closed the door and what a sight to see the vehicle raising straight away as it should!
    I checked for leaks and checked all the height settings which are now operating as they should.
    I'm pretty chuffed I got it working again.

    Best guess is a failed solenoid or a blockage of some type on the original valve block.
    At least now I know the valve block is fresh and a new driver pack might save me a break down some time!
    I can see why people become frustrated with EAS issues and convert to coils, but I love it, wouldn't have it any other way!

    Hope that helps someone experiencing a similar fault.
    Cheers, Pete.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Townsville, QLD
    Posts
    2,522
    Good to hear youíve got it sorted mate!!

    Green 2000 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone
    Blue 1999 P38 Range Rover HSE - Gone

    Silver 2002 P38 Range Rover HSE - Sequential LPG, BCDC Charger, TPMS, Rear Locker, Wheel Carrier, Bullbar & Spotlights, General Grabber AT2's, Too Much to Mention!

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