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Thread: Un-coilovering a P38A

  1. #1
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    Un-coilovering a P38A

    So I'm buying an '01 Range Rover 30th Anniversary Autobiography that someone converted to non-lifted Atlantic British (or whoever) coilovers (the guy I'm buying from says the issue was air springs going bad too frequently for a previous owner).

    I'm already planning on buying:


    My plan is to use this to increase the wheel diameter by about 3" from stock to get some extra diff clearance and improve breakover/approach/departure angles, but keep this thing still pretty drivable at highway speeds by reprogramming Low, Standard, and Crawl height to about 1" taller and High to about 2" taller. I think this will keep the caster angle still pretty good for high-speed handling while enabling it to take on more technical terrain.

    Big questions:
    1. Do I need to move the ride height sensors or can they handle this extra articulation?
    2. Pretty sure I'll have to trim it, not sure where but I'm OK with trimming anything that isn't immediately visible.
    3. Is there an easy way to make sure that the air lines from the valve body are clear of debris from being disconnected for so long?
    4. I have read on paul38a's site that the TF +2" shocks give more than 2" of spring travel since they're further up the arm, how much exactly? Would it be worth going to 3" to fully leverage the Arnotts' 3.5" of additional extension?
    5. Am I failing to anticipate any complications from doing this?

  2. #2
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    Hi Mate,

    I've done pretty much what you want to do and I'm afraid you are short on things on your list

    Just the rear bags would not be enough, I take it you would be buying the front as well?
    The longer shocks by terrafirma work quite well, I would opt for the adjustables.
    bump stops on a P38 are clamped into place, not bolted. You could just make a filler plate on the axle pad to fix that problem, no need for other bump stops but do read on below!
    rsw kit, nice but I would shell out for something that can also do other things with the BECM and such, like a faultmate extreme or whatever. Sooner or later you will need it

    Regarding the tom woods, I have those and they are pretty much overkill. The angles are not to bad since the lift is only mild but I can't hurt to have them

    Your questions in order:

    1. The ride height sensors can not handle the lift, the front can be relocated with a small plate, the rear needs to be extended or you will snap them off.
    2. I did not need to trim anything, having said that, the mudflaps in the front no longer fit and I have put a spacer in the front arms to push the wheels slightly forward.
    3. I would think that pressurized air would do the trick
    4. In the rear, yes. Geometry tells us that you would get more travel however I fail to see how you would like to take advantage of that since you get the extra length anyway. (only the shock limits downwards travel so a longer shock automatically means that the axle drops further extending the bags quite far, read on below)
    5. I can think of a few things...

    The problem, that I guess you will have come across, is that the bag's can extend quite a bit but the angle between the top and bottom half of the bag's becomes quite large. You have a chance of popping the bags and all sorts of trouble. In the front this is less of an issue. The problem in the front is that the bags are somewhat bigger and they bulge outwards quite a bit more and start chafing which can cause trouble. Since you suggested increasing the bump stops I take it you are not going for a lift kit. The former hard range kit is made by someone on this forum and I highly recommend going that route. You can build it all yourself but that kit contains most of what you need, except the longer brake lines. My only problem with the kit has been that it has effectively lifted the car instead of increased the wheel travel. That is to say, my wheel travel has certainly increased but some of the gains have been negated by the lift kit which effectively places spacers front and back between the bags. (and hence are no longer part of the longer travel)

    Having said that, I do enjoy my setup immensely; the gen III bags are non-linear and provide a stiffer ride at the low (highway) setting, this is also one of the reasons why I would recommend buying the TF adjustables. The standard ones are pretty firm and that's all nice and well if you are planning to build a streetracer but during off roading you can set the adjustables a bit softer.

    Regarding reprogramming the heights: you are limited in what the EAS accepts as lower and upper values per setting. Unfortunately the settings are not completely free. 1" is certainly doable in low, crawl can't really be adjusted much (for me it means: bumpstops) 2" in high is also fairly easily attainable but both only with the modified sensor arms (part of the kit I just described) I have found my car to ride really well and I am pretty much at GVM when fully loaded. Settings the TF's to 4 on highway mode one would almost think it's a sportscar My highway setting is rather low though since I do hit the front bump stops occasionally with larger potholes in the road but only slightly. The fact that the bump stops in the kit are not made of rubber but polyurethane makes you feel it a lot better as well (it's much more of a hard stop)

    I can also highly recommend buying a polyurethane bushing kit and replace all those old rubber bushings, it'll stiffen up the car even more. The larger wheels have made the car a bit more sluggish but I am not bothered by it. I did not opt for a different diff ratio but I would consider it if I would do something like this again. The auto box solves most of the problems though Also, the larger wheels do put more strain on the other components so when you go tackle tougher terrain I suggest upgrading the half shafts and CV's with RCV ones.

    Lastly I would suggest that the valve block will need a rebuild and possibly the compressor as well, the rubbers will most likely have perished. Also check the air dryer. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well!

    Cheers,
    -P

  3. #3
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    I will definitely get those TF adjustables. Adjusting for currency these look almost exactly the same price as what I'd pay for +2 standard shocks from Lucky8:


    For the bushings I assume you mean the front radius arms, Lucky8 has a kit for that: Range Rover P38 – LK8 Parts & Accessories

    Any other bushings I should be replacing to improve handling?

    Also, who is making the Hard Range-syle kit still? I have been reading this forum's discussions on P38 lifts and it doesn't seem like anyone actually is making and selling them. I don't mind if the body rides a bit higher permanently, I just figured leveraging the bags and sensors would be easier than actually finding the parts needed to do the spacer lift from the pinned thread.

  4. #4
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    dave / britishcarcomponents on this forum sold them a while back, I guess he may still have some in stock? Just drop him a PM.

    A kit like these contains all the bushings you would need: Range Rover P38 MKII polyurethane bush set - Kit - 1995 - 2002 - p38spares.co.uk - EAS & Landrover Solutions

    The spacer lift is indeed an added lift but it also corrects the angle of the rear bags, which is a good thing! and it helps correct the rubbing problem of the bags in front so, yeah, it's a lift, a correction and a slight decrease in flex but imho the best possible option to get the most out of the P38!

    Cheers,
    -P

  5. #5
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    Looks like he hasn't been back on since August 2018 but I will try contacting him directly via his website since they say they're planning to produce more in 2019. Thanks for the heads-up.

  6. #6
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    Nice to see a P38 going back onto air

    Oh, we just LOVE pics and build threads here,,

    no pressure though...
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

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  7. #7
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    I'm not much one for photos but I will try to keep a build log. Need to get myself a Gorillapod though, haha. I just hope that all the existing EAS components still work with just some new seals put in. I really don't want to shell out for a new pump or solenoids!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by prelude View Post
    dave / britishcarcomponents on this forum sold them a while back, I guess he may still have some in stock? Just drop him a PM.

    A kit like these contains all the bushings you would need: Range Rover P38 MKII polyurethane bush set - Kit - 1995 - 2002 - p38spares.co.uk - EAS & Landrover Solutions

    The spacer lift is indeed an added lift but it also corrects the angle of the rear bags, which is a good thing! and it helps correct the rubbing problem of the bags in front so, yeah, it's a lift, a correction and a slight decrease in flex but imho the best possible option to get the most out of the P38!

    Cheers,
    -P
    Big thanks for this heads-up, by the way. They have two kits left and David is sending me a shipping cost estimate tonight!

  9. #9
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    G’day mate,

    I’m not sure if you’ve read the “lifting a P38” thread on here, but I do suggest it. I made that thread a long time ago, and it’s quite simple.

    To scroll back up for each of your points would take me some time using my phone, so I’ll try and remember some of it.

    You shouldn’t need to cut the body to fit 32” Tyres. I’m running 33” Tyres with no body mods. I have only removed the front mud flaps to prevent scrubbbng, and used a heat gun to push the wheel arch liners (front ones) further into the guards where the mud flap used to live.

    To get back to EAS again, use pressurized air to ensure air lines are clear.

    Use the “lifting a P38” guide re: height sensors and bump stops. You’ll need extended brake lines, but the wheel speed sensor lines are sufficient if you unclip the fronts.

    I highly recommend a Nanocom for height tweaking.

    Full build vid to come.

    YouTube

    Pic below, I can guarantee you’ll get more wheel travel. I use Terrafirma +2” adjustable shocks. Running 285/75/16 BF Goodrich KM3’s.

    Cheers
    Keithy
    Attached Images Attached Images

    2002 P38 Range Rover HSE

    Sequential LPG - Redarc Charger - TPMS - Ashcroft Locker
    Wheel Carrier - Bullbar & Spotlights - 285/75/16 BFG KM3’s
    On Board Solar - Stainless Snorkel - 2” Suspension Lift

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the extra feedback. The more I look at it the more I'm thinking 33" tires are the way to go if I'm already going to all this trouble. The price difference is marginal and you get another half inch of axle clearance and an almost perfect ratio match to 4.10 gears from Ashcroft (price just keeps climbing on this build, haha).

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