Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Compressor rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Bairnsdale
    Posts
    33

    Compressor rebuild

    Hi guys this is about the third time I've rebuilt my compressor in about 4 years I reckon I think it's obviously over working but does anyone know exactly what the size is for the grub screw on the shaft because I just cannot seem to have anything that fits

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Bairnsdale
    Posts
    33
    Nevermind it's 3.5 mil

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    62
    I just pulled mine apart and rebuilt it so the 3.5mm grub is the same. Unfortunately I'm still trying to sort out what is wrong with my EAS system even though I recently rebuilt the compressor, valve body and cleaned up all the contacts for the comms, from the amplifier pack, the looms, the BECM ports, the EAS ECU and both the relays, but nothing gave me any help there. We were in Nowra a couple of weeks ago but about 5km away from returning home the system lost most of the pressure and gave a 55km slow alarm and the compressor just wouldn't run.

    At home I plugged in my Nanocom Evo and found I could start the compressor, but it ran down slowly after only a couple of minutes. I'm still unsure but I think the compressor thermal switch could be cooked (showing 'HOT' on the Evo) or the brushes could be just worn out, as discussed in Falconworks advice. I'll find out more tomorrow but I'm no electrician.

    In the same vein, I've had a look on new compressors on the HK and the UK Ebay sites. Does anyone know where the compressors in HK are coming from, or have bought and used one? $280 with shipping is a good price, but ..... What do you get? The genuine UK ones were from 'Dunlop', but where from now? Is there good and bad compressors at the moment? Any advice would be welcome.
    MY00' P38 4.6 HSE

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    384
    Hi mate,

    The first thing I would check is the voltage over the motor. Check when the compressor is running to see if the voltage drops in relation to the rpm it is making. It could be that bad contact somewhere is causing heat buildup etc etc. The thermal switch could be the culprit, you can try and bypass it (when you are testing, not permanently) to see if it runs well.

    I have one of these: Range Rover P38 MKII Dunlop EAS Air Suspension Compressor Pump 1994-2002 - p38spares.co.uk - EAS & Landrover Solutions and it has been working fine since 2015. I also have one of them imitation ones from a wrecker but I can't say how well it works, it works since I tested it before I put it on the shelve as a spare.

    If I were to venture a guess, the P38 pump is fairly rare (not used in other applications afaik) so I do not believe there to be many manufacturers of this item so all the non dunlops are likely from the same supplier.

    Cheers,
    -P

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    62
    Thanks P. I tested the compressor when I rebuilt it and found the pressure/suction was strong, but the motor became hot quickly after about 2 minutes. That may be a clue, or normal, as I donít have a spare to compare. This car is only a FY00 185k car which worked perfectly for 3 years after I bought it yet the EAS box was replaced by an earlier one from a FY96 version.

    I will test the voltages and the thermal switch before I will pull out the compressor to check the brushes. I should have done this already but it will happen tomorrow or across the weekend.

    i thought about you comment about the number of Dunlop compressors used and I agree. I havenít yet seen one in another brand car, even if one is, yet there seems to be many new ones for sale to supply the market for the many broken ones, and the prices have dropped a bit even if there is still just one supplier.

    Iíve bought many parts from Island-4x4, some genuine and some not, yet all were pretty good stock. They have two different compressors, the 150 Pound one and the 200 Pound ĎDunlopí genuine one. They seem the same, despite the pictures being rather small. Am I paying 50 Pounds for the ĎDunlopí label? Hush my mouth!

    Belize, pardon me highjacking this thread. Yours was simple, yet my issue is getting more complex as I want to find what the cause is/was. I should have started another one. Perhaps the moderator can fix this. By the way, why 3 rebuilds in 4 years? Regards,

    Gary.
    MY00' P38 4.6 HSE

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Gosford, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    2,547
    Hi

    The standard compressor does get pretty hot so I think that is normal.

    I gave up on it and added a Viair 400c to mine, I doubt the standard compressor even runs much nay more, plus I have onboard air to pump tyres etc

    Viair 400C Compressor – Air Ride Suspension Supplies

    Steve
    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website http://p38.hts.com.au/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    384
    Nice compressor to look at

    I am also considering replacing the unit completely, possibly with an ARB twin air. They should put out the same pressure, are much faster and suitable to air up tyres and such. Fitting it into the system "somewhere" would free up that space to make routing an snorkel perhaps a bit easier.

    -P

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    62
    I noticed that Paul's P38 EAS Guide site shown that he had replaced his compressor by another chunkier type, with the same principles.

    Well, I found what was wrong with my compressor. When I pulled the cap off the wiring/brush holder I noticed that the orange wire was loose after it fell from the relevant post AND the black (brush) wire insulation had been worn through to the copper wire, earthing to the commutator rather through the brush, presuming it slowing down the motor.

    I've repaired the black insulation and tensioned the post to hold the orange wire properly, but installing the brushes in to their holder and holding them out while lowering over the commutator is another issue. I've tried a couple of versions of a holding tool, which didn't work, but I need to think out another one. I'm sure that lots of sparkies have done this work before but I haven't. Another day.

    And I have ordered a new compressor as there was stock in NSW rather than HK, just in case, and I'll have a spare like some owners of the P38.
    MY00' P38 4.6 HSE

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW Australia
    Posts
    50
    Use fishing line to tie the brushes back before assembly then just pull the fishing line out once the brushes are past the commutator but before you tighten the motor end right down.
    I've put tiny nicks in the brush corners/edges to stop the fishing line sliding off as you assemble the motor if that is a problem.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    62
    Thanks oka374. Good idea and I'll try that as I did use fine copper wire, but they 'stick' and there wasn't much room to cut the wires (after 3 tries). Maybe I don't have enough persistence. The fishing wire may slip just the right amount though. Next episode coming.
    MY00' P38 4.6 HSE

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!