Sorting various issues

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Change the batteries in the fobs. It is a cheap first step and often works.

Go well out of range of the vehicle to change the batteries, so you avoid triggering a reaction from the vehicle. Maybe just change one fob battery, see if that works and if it does, then do the other.
Sometimes the contacts in the fobs also get dirty, so check them while the fob is apart.
Hope that fixes it. It's cheaper than other options.

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Thanks for that Mick - I have to go to SuperCheap tomorrow anyway so it's worth a try with new batteries and checking connections while replacing them.

I mucked around locking/unlocking this arvo and of course it behaved perfectly. My second remote has no key blade and is compleltely dead so I'll have to get new batteries for that anyway (new blank key blade/shell on its way too. Should be easy getting it cut I think).

I started to search on this issue the other day but got bogged down with some threads that really didn't describe the fault-finding process for non-operational remotes. One was about fixing the problem by having a new flux capacitor soldered to the key fob circuit board. Okay, it didn't mention a flux capacitor but it was something like that. I have a lot to learn...

Hey, a quick question on the BCM not going to sleep because of RF issues -- would getting something like this
P38 RF Receiver Filter
potentially sort out key fob issues I'm having too? I'm thinking of getting the RF filter anyway, once they're back in stock.

Went to Supercheap but forgot batteries until I got back to the car. It wouldn’t unlock. So back in the shop for new Varta CR2025 batteries. Problem solved! Hopefully it’ll stay that way.
I think the EAS compressor kicks in too often so put the suspension on high and did the soapy water test. A few bubbles on the drier connecton, but then was interrupted. So started again 30min later, moved the suspension down to normal height then back up, waited for the compressor to stop and tried with the soapy water again. No bubbles this time. Hmmm, don’t know what is going on there. Might replace the o-ring(s) on the drier anyway. The airbags looked quite good as far as I could tell, not perished or any cracks. Where they fold in looked like new. Not that means much I suppose.

That's great about the batteries. If only all problems were so easily solved.

We were charged $70 for a genuine Land Rover key when we got a replacement fob after losing one for our Defender - and the genuine key wasn't even cut! When we took it to a locksmith he wanted another $70to cut it, because he said he had to contact Land Rover to get the design. A total of $140.
Humoursly, I had got a $10 copy of the other key made separately which works perfectly.

At least there are 3rd party keys available now

Range Rover P38 Replacement Key NEW Keys 433mhz Or 315mhz- Inc Key Cutting | eBay

Steve

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Originally Posted by TheTree

At least there are 3rd party keys available now

Range Rover P38 Replacement Key NEW Keys 433mhz Or 315mhz- Inc Key Cutting | eBay

Steve

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Good stuff - thanks for that Steve!

I've been working on rebuilding my spare key fob, which came in a sorry knocked about state with no keyblade. Bought one of the el-cheapo eBay key fobs, which of course didn't come with the small metal piece required on the battery cover/holder to permit continuity of the circuit.

Fixed that and I've got the LED responding on the fob now, but I wonder if it's the wrong key as I've seen pics of an 'early' and 'late' circuit board online -- they appear different. Mine's a late car but this fob looks like an early one. If I can't get it to synch then it's a new key for me :(