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Thread: Yes, another P38 HEVAC question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    wandin nth vic
    Dont start the car with instrument panel out. You will throw a hard fault on the ABS system. Ask me how I know. (Cost me 120 bucks to get it cleared , years ago).

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Quote Originally Posted by theelms66 View Post
    Dont start the car with instrument panel out. You will throw a hard fault on the ABS system. Ask me how I know. (Cost me 120 bucks to get it cleared , years ago).
    Thanks! I did wonder if it was not a good idea so decided not to risk it. I've put in a manual adjuster mechanism (AKA coat hanger) for the rh blend door and am putting it all back together so I can use the car until I've sorted this out properly.

    I've found a link to a guy in France that makes brass gears for the blend motor - but only the two larger ones. Doesn't help the small gear that appears to be partially stripped in my car. I am tempted to buy these and get a used motor and use the hopefully good small gear out of that. The motor assy is pretty new by the looks, although I should check the pot works before I think about just replacing stripped gears.

    This blend motor is used in a variety of other makes and models - Peugeot 405 and early (I think) 406, for example. There was some chat online that the Peugeot ones use brass gears but from what I've seen online of their motors pulled apart this is incorrect.

    Ultimately this is a dash-out job. I want to fix the blend doors properly, and also thinking about replacing some of the parts butchered in there. Eg the inst cluster surround is broken on the lower attachment points. Even the upper attachment points have been broken in a previous repair attempt-- but I'll make up some aluminium brackets and glue them on when I have time. There's also a bit of creaking going on over bumps that I think are dash/console parts. I'm thinking of somehow buffering these so they don't rub together.
    MY2002 Range Rover Vogue

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2016

    The flaps are usually not running smoothly due to hardened grease, rubber and ingress of dirt. The only real way to fix them is to open up the unit and properly clean it. You have a choice here. Whilst you can do it in the car (with the dash removed) you can also take the entire unit out but that will require you to degas the A/C and drain the coolant. Not something one would do lightly. I would have the ac pumped out at a shop so that the gas does not go to waste. Again, this is not a must only a nice to have since you can then replace the o-rings on the heater core whilst you are down there. Cheap and they leak eventually (or did you already do that...).

    The poogeot ones are indeed the same units. Exactly the same. The units are made by valeo, a french company so I guess it makes sense a french car should have them Down here the genuine article for the 405 are more expensive than the rover units though. Replacement gears are not available afaik and 3d printing them is usually not strong enough. To be honest I would go with a new set. They come as a set of 3 so you'd replace all of them at once. Saves a lot of aggravation when the other one gives up within a few months

    There is a bloke on here who replace the entire unit with a stepper servo from the RC world and I have been looking into this as well but I have since moved on to probably replace the entire HEVAC unit with a custom made one so that is a step further even. In any case, it can be done especially since there is indeed this external lever for what looks like a manual option indeed although I have never seen a P38 with manual HEVAC, ever, anywhere...

    Take your time with the dash and power down the car before hand, you will need to take the airbags out and you do not want those suckers to go off on you by accident! If you need any pics; I have a wrecker with the dash out so I can make pictures of area's you may have questions about. It is a LHD though.


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Gosford, NSW, Australia

    I found the problem was not that the flaps stuck, in fact they has a rubber edge which would never stick, the problem was the grease in the pivot points had become hard over time.

    I shot of Inox and a toothbrush took care of it, then a squirt of lithium grease

    MY96 4.6 HSE P38. Niagara Grey; "The Phoenix"
    MY99 4.6 HSE P38. LPG, Blenheim Sliver; "Voldemort" burnt to a cinder
    MY79 RR Classic, Gone, MY57 Series 1 SWB, Long gone
    P38 write ups and info on my website

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