Yes stick with the green coolant - it will be fine.
While you are under there inspect your heater matrix orings.
Some plastic bits that are broken can be rebuilt with thin alloy reinforcement and rapidfix.
Make sure there are no water leaks from plenum or pollen filter housings - test it while you have your dash out - its insidious and can leave the sound deadening mats under carpet completely soaked. Sometimes it drips into connectors and corrodes them - essential requirement to check this.
Ive been everywhere in my vehicle except very remote areas and has been very reliable - except for remotes and a crank sensor- there is a part inside the remote that is the antennae - that fails. The red LED does not confirm that the remote is transmitting RF. The LED just confirms you are pressing the button.You can find my post on Rangerovers.net. Never leave the keys in the car with the windows up and then close all doors. You must have good remotes and master drivers door station ECU otherwise the security system can be problematic - active immobilisation cannot be disabled in the BCM like the D2. Passive can by nanocom. Im pretty good on the alarm system and diagnosis if you ever need help.
The PCM is very good at substituting values for ageing sensors - your CKP can work just fine whilst in the cruise and yet suddenly not supply a strong pattern on crank - they are cheap - get a spare if you are going long distance as its the only sensor where PCM will not allow running unless it can CLEARLY detect firing position. Ampltude is about + or - 10V on a new one and slowly deteriorates with age until at low amplitude on crank the PCM rejects as invalid signal. I can post the cam crank signals if you are jnterested. Symptoms are crank but no spark, check engine light on,(no injection pulse if I recall correctly.)
1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
Freelander 2 2012
1992 RRC sold and now pranged.
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