You can keep the car mobile with the dash out. I usually leave the dash out for a while after doing HEVAC work on my own cars just to make sure all is well before reassembling.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4X4V8
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You can keep the car mobile with the dash out. I usually leave the dash out for a while after doing HEVAC work on my own cars just to make sure all is well before reassembling.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4X4V8
I have been wondering about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scouse
I was hoping to be able to at least start the engine with dash out (after the blend doors and RH motor have been repaired) so I can make sure it all works okay, like you said. Do you pull the passenger airbag fuse so you don't trigger a fault code by starting the engine with airbag disconnected?
I will be replacing coolant hoses at the same time (it just seems to make life easier overall as I am replacing heater core o-rings. If I disturb the o-rings when replacing heater hoses and the o-rings leak, it doen't matter, as they're being replaced. Also I can drain the cooling system and have less coolant spill in the car when replacing o-rings).
I don't worry about the passenger airbag. I just clear the fault once it's all finished.
It's almost a given that if you change the heater hoses & move the firewall pipes the slightest amount, the O rings will leak. Do the O rings last.
OP.
Have u had a tyre off the rim lately, ie a puncture repair?
I run Toyo's and I DON'T rotate tyres because they create a racket when rotated against the wear.
Just a thought.
MjsQuote:
Originally Posted by Scouse
Not except to get new tyres. When I bought the car in Feb I drove at a max 80km/h getting it home, didn't notice anything amiss at that stage. One tyre was borderline illegal for treadwear, the other 4 incl spare I think were out of date, abt 10 years old. So I repainted the alloys while old tyres were on, then bought new Pirellis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Saulman1010
While the paint on the wheels was pretty bad, I think I would have noticed any obvious damage since I had all five off to clean, sand and repaint. Doesn't mean they are not out of round or whatever, although I've been told these std LR wheels are pretty strong. AFAIK this car has never been off-road except some very light trail work by me in April.
With COVID, I have not driven it much let alone on the highway. But a 600km work trip in April and another 300km trip a few weeks ago has highlighted that vibration is an issue. Between those two trips, I had the car in to get a fuel tank leak fixed, and asked the mech to check CVs etc because of the vibration. So the only rotation I have done is swap the spare (with its brand new 'unroaded' tyre) with the suspect RHF wheel/tyre, which by then had done about 700km since new tyres fitted.
I was thinking of taking up Scott's generous offer of borrowing his spare wheel set but I've decided that if I need to chase a tyre warranty claim, it might be good to have a report from a mechanic saying that's the problem. I've booked it in with a LR mech at the end of the month to try a set of 'known' wheels/tyres he has, and will go from there.
The job I was putting off has finally been done - sticking blend doors and other stuff (o-rings, heater hoses, dead HVAC pixel fix). I was getting sick of it after two weeks off the road but I drove the Rangie down the shops yesterday and any misgivings evaporated.
I used a combination of Paul P38a's guide and Mez's (UK) to do this job. I'm very appreciative of these guys taking the trouble to document their work. Made the job much easier. Not having done this job before, it was a life-saver. A couple things that took me a while to figure out was how to release the glovebox latch cable (I didn't want to force it too much as I didn't know how fragile the plastic was -- there's plenty of that going on in this car!),
Two weeks sounds like a bloody long time and I was beginning to get sick of it. Even though I'm not that old, I am not capable of what I used to be due to illness. Just mowing the lawn for 30min can finish me off for the rest of the day sometimes, so when my body got too sore or I got so tired I was making mistakes the work on the Rangie had to be put aside a few times. I'm worried about how much longer I can manage to do big jobs like this on the Rangie, but for now I still get enjoyment out of it.
I also had so many side jobs to do while in there. You kind of want to fix anything that's not right because of the effort involved getting the damn dash out. Even then I didn't get to replacing some blown bulbs in the HVAC unit. That's have to wait until next time.
There were also delays with simple stuff. For example, someone has been in there before, judging by the missing screws, incorrectly fitted screws and bits hacked off the dash pad frame. So 2 bolts of the 4 securing the dash pad up at the bulkhead were missing: no worries, found a couple of the right thread pitch, length etc. But when re-fitting I could not get that last damn bolt back in, the bracket wouldn't line up with the thread in the dash pad. Spent ages on it. Everything was just about back in by then, so getting in there with a Dremmel to grind down the edge of the bracket aperture was going to be hard. Also realised the brackets are bolted through the bulkhead: there's probably a nut on the plenum side so I could adjust the bracket but I was sick of pulling things apart. Three bolts holding the dash front will have to do (until next time)!
Attachment 167725
When I took out the heater box to establish why the RH blend door was sticking, all I found was the rubber flap surround 'just' catching on the housing. Filed down the housing at that point, think I even slightly trimmed the rubber surround. I pulled all the flaps and checked shafts and regreased, although none of the original grease was dried out. When I put it all back together the flap was sticking exactly as it was before! Bottom line: I think it was the pot on the blend motor at fault: while it also had a couple gears missing teeth, when I replaced the motor with a new one, no problems. I probably should have done that in the first place!
Attachment 167726
The o-rings were a bit tricky - you have to remember that the cut-outs at the end of the aluminium tubes have to marry to the notches on the heater core apertures. Simple I know, but it nearly got me. I can see how some might not get the o-rings to seat properly or to over-tighten the connection. While the damage to the tightening screw suggests it had been worked before (and was easy to loosen, with a bit of WD-40 sprayed 30min before), the old o-rings looked... well, old. Crushed, old degraded rubber. I'm glad I replaced them. I used Viton rubber o-rings, we'll see how long they last.
Attachment 167727
I will be flamed for this, but I did not replace the heater core, the 2001 original. I didn't want to wait 2 weeks for a replacement, and I didn't want to trust an aftermarket one that might leak anyway. The only original cores were either OEM from Land Rover Classic for $500 or a Valeo (same as OEM) from the US for about $350.
Attachment 167728
Anyway, job done, no book symbol (yet)! and no coolant leaks (yet!).
Hi guys and thanks for the posts. I’ve haven’t been active on the forum for quite a while but hopefully I am making up for that now. I’ve taken on a few projects lately which I’m listing below.
I’ve reconditioned the 4.6 litre engine in my 1996 HSE using mostly components that I bought from various suppliers in the UK. The most notable supplier that deserves a mention is Turner Engineering who supplied me with new Darton ductile iron flanged liners and high compression pistons.
Attachment 167779
PLR Performance Engines in Brendale did the engineering work which included machining out the old liners and machining the block and fitting the new flanged Darton liners, ground the crankshaft and fitted new camshaft bearings. Southside Cylinder Heads did the work that needed to be done on the cylinder heads.
I assembled the engine with high compression pistons and a new longer duration standard LR camshaft as well as a new oil pump kit, timing chain and sprockets. The heads as well as the block decks had been skimmed so I had the inlet manifold skimmed as well so as to fit to the engine.
Attachment 167777
Attachment 167778
I fitted a new radiator and Murray at JagRover Spares in Brisbane supplied me with a cooling system modification kit which consisted of a number of hoses and a 82 degrees thermostat and I purchased an aluminium header tank through Bearmach which takes a normal radiator cap and also fitted a coolant recovery tank to the system. I topped this off with fitting a 7 psi radiator cap to the cooling system and also an Engine Guard to monitor the engine temperature.
Attachment 167780
I removed the exhaust manifold heat shields and wrapped the factory headers with exhaust wrap in order to keep under hood temperatures down. A new Bosch 1.8kW starter motor, engine mounts, flex plate, radiator and battery finished this side of the work off.
Attachment 167776
Turning to the inside, as the dash top was in bad shape from years in the sun also I replaced that and fitted all new brake rotors and pads, new ball joints, oil seals, front radius arm bushes and Panhard rod bushes. So, all in all I've kept myself busy for a while.
Omar
Well after losing the key for the P38 I have been rebuilding and looking for it in my shed for nearly 4 months. I went to the Land Rover dealer and ordered and paid for a new key [$487.00] and it might get here late February. SWMBO, swore she had not seen it. Anyway it turned up in the house. I needed a spare key anyway. Then I had to have some more skin cancer cut out of my leg. So I have not been doing big jobs on my P38 for a while. The only project completed lately is I managed to get a 8.8 inch wide screen head unit into the dash and sort of looking factory. Also it comes with all the modern inconveniences, front and rear cameras, GPS, connects to at least 3 phones at once, will connect to the internet for live traffic updates, or doing a bit of ebaying while traveling, plays movies etc. I have a steel bullbar half built that I will get back to soon.
Regards, Alan
Does that price include GST and did the dealer try to tell you that it also needs a couple hours of their labour time to sync the key?Quote:
Originally Posted by old dirt bikes
Here in Sydney a year ago I got 2 quotes from LR dealers, ($500 and $550) and both wanted to charge to sync the key at between $200 and $240 per hour. 2 hours of labour for one dealer, I didn't bother asking the other how much time they would need. You or I could sync the new key in 5 minutes including a break for lunch.
Hi, 4X4V8,
no that was the total price including GST. Their head tech did come out to the parts counter and tell me he would have to sync the new key with his Range Rover scan tool. So I asked what scan tool he would use to do that, if he said Textbook I thought he might know what he was talking about. But no he had some new scan tool to suit the new Range Rovers. I have access to a text book scan tool if I need it. I told the parts guy I would think about ordering the key, and left. I returned the next day and ordered the key and paid for it, and said to the parts guy not to say anything to the tech I was arguing with the previous day.
I am making slow progress on my project P38. My front seats will be ready next week, new leather. It has been a pain working on the dash and electrics etc. sitting on the floor. Once it is mobile again I can take it to the workshop and fit the new airbags and Terra Firma shock's. I also have a Maxi Drive rear end to fit. And I have a bullbar half built I need to finish and blast and paint with 2 pack to match the colour of the vehicle. And fit the winch and 2 way radio. Before I start on any new projects like a rear bar and roof rack. Lucky I have another P38 to drive while I am working on this one.
Regards,
Alan Temperley
