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Thread: Rosie fix up

  1. #11
    4X4V8 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Saulman1010 View Post
    What spray glue did you use?
    And where did you get the material?

    I've been on ebay and I see some at $19perM but I'm wondering if it's ok quality?

    MJS
    Bought the material from a local trimmer (Five Dock in Sydney) for about $100. The P38 headliner is unusually wide at the back so you can't use standard width material, it won't cover all the headliner board. So that eBay stuf isn't likely to be wide enough. If you do a search on this forum or Google it you'll find the details of the width you need.

    The only high-temp spray adhesive I could find anywhere was Selleys Kwik-Grip spray adhesive. DON'T use it! I couldn't find the exact 3M spray glue everyone recommends online, or any other high-temp spray adhesive. The glue has to be suitable for high temp (ie a hot car sitting in the summer sun = 50deg+). While Kwik Grip is 70deg rated and I applied it by the book, the headliner material started to bubble in a few spots or come away at the edges after a few weeks. It has since held after pressing the material back against the board. I may have to do the whole damn thing again if it starts to drop again, which it probably will .

    I did a BMW headliner years ago and don't remember the glue except it came out thicker, was more viscous than Kwik Grip, which is a thin, clear glue. Whatever that glue was it held really well, no probs, no bubbling etc.

    Maybe auto paint suppliers sell the right spray adhesive, or maybe Bursons or others. I looked in Bunnings, Repco and Supercheap just as COVID-19 restrictions hit before just grabbing the Selleys stuff and so wasn't able to go hunting more. Act in haste, repent at leisure!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saulman1010 View Post
    They were fine until I got my local mechanics (who I get to do the heavy stuff for me) to change ALL the heater and radiator hoses. Then they weeped.
    Must have disturbed them somehow.
    MJS
    The slightest movement of the heater pipes where they go through the firewall will disturb the heater core O rings everytime.
    Scott

  3. #13
    4X4V8 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    The slightest movement of the heater pipes where they go through the firewall will disturb the heater core O rings everytime.
    I was told today that if you're just replacing the heater hoses, to split (cut) the old hoses off at the firewall end and push the new hoses on with some lubricant or you'll get an o-ring leak.

    I'm doing both at the same time so hopefully it won't really matter.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4X4V8 View Post
    Bought the material from a local trimmer (Five Dock in Sydney) for about $100. The P38 headliner is unusually wide at the back so you can't use standard width material, it won't cover all the headliner board. So that eBay stuf isn't likely to be wide enough. If you do a search on this forum or Google it you'll find the details of the width you need.

    The only high-temp spray adhesive I could find anywhere was Selleys Kwik-Grip spray adhesive. DON'T use it! I couldn't find the exact 3M spray glue everyone recommends online, or any other high-temp spray adhesive. The glue has to be suitable for high temp (ie a hot car sitting in the summer sun = 50deg+). While Kwik Grip is 70deg rated and I applied it by the book, the headliner material started to bubble in a few spots or come away at the edges after a few weeks. It has since held after pressing the material back against the board. I may have to do the whole damn thing again if it starts to drop again, which it probably will .

    I did a BMW headliner years ago and don't remember the glue except it came out thicker, was more viscous than Kwik Grip, which is a thin, clear glue. Whatever that glue was it held really well, no probs, no bubbling etc.

    Maybe auto paint suppliers sell the right spray adhesive, or maybe Bursons or others. I looked in Bunnings, Repco and Supercheap just as COVID-19 restrictions hit before just grabbing the Selleys stuff and so wasn't able to go hunting more. Act in haste, repent at leisure!
    Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
    MJS

  5. #15
    4X4V8 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Saulman1010 View Post
    Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
    MJS
    You don't need to take out the sunroof 'cassette' (assembly), although I wonder if it might be easier in the end. Part of the problem is that you're working on the sunroof, from the top mostly, so you need a step laddder etc. That's not a huge issue though. The trickey bit is figuring out how it all goes together. RAVE is not a big help -- in fact one of the instructions is wrong, in regards to manual operation of the roof.

    Anyway, I loosened the side rails and the centre support bracket so that the rails could be widened and sunshade then removed. It was fiddly and a pain to do but now I have a better idea of how it all goes together I'd do it much more quickly next time. I took ages being super careful as I read a lot about the sunshade guide clips breaking easily and having no replacements available but I didn't find them fragile, or break any (unlike trim clip tabs for interior pillar trims, broke a few of those!). Just fiddly to put back on reassembly.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saulman1010 View Post
    Do I really have to take the whole sunroof out to get the sunshade off or am I reading the posts wrong?
    MJS
    If you have the headlining out, the sunroof assy is only a 5min job. It's so much easier to work on at floor or bench height.
    Scott

  7. #17
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    Today was the turn of the headliner. One thing became apparent, its a good idea to cover the interior with sheets as the old liners glue make a great mess. Things went ok. Got the sunroof cassette out easily enough and off with the sun shield by sort of bowing it in the middle.
    The A pillar trim just exploded into three parts, dunno if its a repair or replace job.
    My focus is now on getting sunroof reinstalled so its dust tight again, even in a garage, I hate the thought of insects or mice getting into the vehicle.
    Can't decide if the brush adhesive is better than the spray. Time will tell.
    MJS

  8. #18
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    While you have the interior apart, check the sunroof drain hoses, particularly the rear pair. They often tend to shrink with age & become too short to fit into the duckbill section that goes through the wheel arch. If this is the case, it's usually best to fit a new length of hose rather than try to bodge the end up to stop leaks.

    Also, check the roof braces for rattles. If the bonding adhesive has failed in any spots, now's a good time to fix that too.

    Oh, and the orange stuff that falls out of the headlining isn't glue. It's the foam backing the material originally had stuck to it. Lovely stuff...NOT.
    Scott

  9. #19
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    While you have the interior apart, check the sunroof drain hoses, particularly the rear pair.
    Or they kink.

    P38A_Roof_Lining_13.jpg
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Yep, got a kink I saw that. Will attend to that.
    Thx

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