SRS airbag light

Hi Alan, wow, 2 1/2 hours on the table would have felt like an eternity, I hope you are feeling ok today, it must be a relief to have that part over with at least.

Very glad you had some progress with things, P38s do respond well to a bit of effort, I always do my homework first, get as much info as I can before starting any jobs, that way I start with a good mental picture of what I need to do.
You should find the SRS light an easy one to do, it's probably just a matter of finding the right connector to clean.
The one under the steering wheel is just a matter of removing the 4 screws that hold the panel on and the connector is right there.

For the book symbol, you might want to try swapping a yellow relay over for another one in the fuse box, it could be as simple as a failed relay RL7 is the most likely culprit, the one closest to the front of the vehicle on the left hand side. RL6 can also give trouble, the next one back on the left hand side.
While you have the relay out, check for cracks or melting on the plastic surface of the fuse box under the relay, that might give you a clue as to what is causing the problem.
The solder joints on the circuit board under the plastic can crack over time with all the heat cycles and cause problems with the fans.
That relay commonly gets dark areas on the yellow plastic due to heat discolouration.
I just changed my whole fusebox over for another one and it has fixed a few things on mine at once, I posted about that last night.
You might also need to clear the HEVAC fault codes to make the book symbol go away.

Hope you are on the mend and not too sore and sorry!
Cheers, pete.

Hi Pete,
Thanks for your kind words. I will find out Thursday weather they got it al or not. I am a bit second hand today but that is to be expected. My Doc had to do some fancy knife work to try to get it all out and be able to close it up again. I have just replaced the fuse box with a new one, and that fixed the no start issues I was having. But I will try changing those relays as they are still the originals. But I am not going near it today at least, I don't want to pull any stitches, or risk getting an infection.
Thanks,
Alan

Hi Folks,
I did a bit of work on the SRS light. I cleaned the connectors for the D/S and P/S air bags. Light was still on. Next I cleaned the connector behind the R/S kick panel. Light was still on. Then I cleaned the connectors for the 2 crash sensors under the bonnet. Light was still on. Then I was thinking where to next. Clock spring or SRS module. The horn and stereo controls all work so I am going to try the SRS module first. I read in the workshop manual it is located under the console. So I looked but I could not find it. So I drove out to where my one is that I have for parts, and I followed the yellow cable back to a secret mounting spot under the insulation under the cubbie box. So tomorrow I will remove the module and clean the pins on the module and wiring plug, and see if that puts the light out. If not I will have to look at the clock spring.
Could the clock spring be at fault when the horn and stereo controls all work?
Regards,
Alan

Hi Alan, did you clear the fault code?
Sometimes the fault might still be showing because it is stored in memory.

Hi Folks,
well I finally got the SRS light to go out. Apparently on the later models the light will go out as soon as you have cleaned the dirty contact. But on the early models you have to plug in the scan tool and delete all the faults. So after cleaning all the contacts and the light was still on I plugged in the scan tool and clear the faults and success the light is out. Now on to EAS.
Regards, Alan

Nice one Alan, good luck with the EAS!

Hi Folks, well I had a great day today, the EAS now works. Things that did not go to plan, I now have an oil leak from the Right side head gasket. I have had the block decked and the heads skimmed and I used multi layer steel head gaskets and ARP studs and nuts. So I am at a loss why the right side one is leaking and the left side is just starting to weep. I am thinking I will remove the headers and tappet covers and retorque the heads up an extra 5 ft/lb. And then clean it all down and see how it goes. I am still supposed to be resting as I have a row of stitches between my shoulder blades, so I probable should not be pulling off the heads and replacing the head gaskets for a while yet. Doctors get cranky when you go back in with pulled stitches.
Regards, Alan

Look after yourself Alan, yes the docs would get a bit cranky if you pulled stitches out!
Nice work on the EAS, what did you have to do to fix it?
Oil leaks are never fun, I hope you can solve it.

Hi Pete,
I had put a switch on the earth of the relay under the P/S seat to isolate the EAS in case I had to go through deep water. Trouble is I ran it through a relay that that was ignition powered. So when I turned the key off the EAS would get all these fault codes and stop working. I guess I out smarted myself. But it all seems to be working now. I am hopefull retentioning the head will fix the leak. I don't think I am up to replacing the head gaskets at the moment. And the next lot of surgery will be in a couple of weeks time.
Alan

Hi folks,
well I am still having trouble with the air bag light. I cleaned all the connectors I could find then cleared the faults and the light went out, for a while. Then I thought it was time to take it for a descent drive. So I took it for a run to the beach and back home, about 100 klm. Almost home and the bloody thing came on again. The scan tool is telling me it is the left side air bag open circuit. I have cleaned the connector, no change. I bridged the connector, no change. I tried another airbag, no change. I did notice that at the connector the blue wire connects to the white wire and the white wire connects to the blue wire. Is this normal??? I tried connecting white to white and blue to blue then the scan tool says air bag is short circuited. What am I doing wrong ?? Has anyone got any suggestions. I am so close to having everything working.
Thanks,
Alan