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Thread: Locked out! 2001 HSE.

  1. #11
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    That is not a D2 remote , compared to my 2002 D2 anyway.
    The D2 remote clips together and should be able to be pried apart at or near the loop for the keyring.
    Regards PhilipA

  2. #12
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    After sleeping on it, I think trying to get the key working is the best way forward to start with, rather than tyring to break in.
    I'll call a car key specilist to come and see if they can help.
    If I can get the fob to send an unlock signal, then at least the vehicle will be unlocked, then the fob can be repaired and I can get into the door to repair the latch.
    I usually get any problems sorted very quickly with my P38, it's usually back on the road in under 24 hours.
    I'll let you know how it goes. wish me luck!
    Thanks for all the replies everyone, it really is most appreciated, I wasn't sure where to start with this one.

  3. #13
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    I'm not having any luck so far, have called a few key fob specialists and none of them are interested in helping.
    I took the fob to one guy, who had never even seen a P38 fob before.
    He pressed the buttons several times and now the remote seems to have lost synch with the vehicle.
    Can anyone help me here, do you know of anyone in Melbourne who is familiar with P38 key fobs?
    I'm really stuck, any help will be most apprecaited.
    I've been searching forums, but I'm not getting anywhere as to how to gain access to a superlocked car with a broken latch and faulty remote.
    Thanks, Pete.

  4. #14
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    Key Fob

    Hi Peter,
    It would be worth talking to Lee at Labtronics. He is a specialist in all things P38 electronics. But worst case you may have to break in and get access to the inside of the drivers side door, which may not be pretty. My BECM on my first P38 went to sleep and would not wake up. I had to send the BECM, key and drivers door lock to Lee. A couple of days and he had it sorted.
    Regards,
    Alan Temperley





    Quote Originally Posted by PeterH View Post
    I'm not having any luck so far, have called a few key fob specialists and none of them are interested in helping.
    I took the fob to one guy, who had never even seen a P38 fob before.
    He pressed the buttons several times and now the remote seems to have lost synch with the vehicle.
    Can anyone help me here, do you know of anyone in Melbourne who is familiar with P38 key fobs?
    I'm really stuck, any help will be most apprecaited.
    I've been searching forums, but I'm not getting anywhere as to how to gain access to a superlocked car with a broken latch and faulty remote.
    Thanks, Pete.

  5. #15
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    Thank you so much for this info Alan, do you have the contact details for Labtronics?
    I've been pretty stumped on how to proceed with this, it would be great to have a way forward.
    It's hard to have my daily driver hopelessly locked and blocking my driveway.
    Hope you are recovering well from all your recent goings on.
    Thanks, pete.

  6. #16
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    G’day mate, I thought I’d throw in my 0.02, even though you appear to be on the right track.

    My 2002 does this from time to time, immobilising then whole show. I’ve narrowed it down to the dual battery system back-feeding (solar on the roof) into the main battery, making the system believe the car is being swiped and super locking (and subsequently immobilising the P38 at the same time).

    My solution temporarily is to remotely switch the car fridge on, removing the voltage feed to the main battery and de-immobilising the entire show.

    That said, I’m not sure if you have a dual battery system that could be doing this, but it’s food for thought.

    Cheers
    Keithy

    2002 P38 Range Rover HSE

    Sequential LPG - Redarc Charger - TPMS - Ashcroft Locker
    Wheel Carrier - Bullbar & Spotlights - 285/75/16 BFG KM3’s
    On Board Solar - Stainless Snorkel - 2” Suspension Lift

  7. #17
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    Firstly, have you changed the battery in the remote?
    Are there any other keyholes on the vehicle, I assume not?
    If not, then honestly the easiest way is to break a window. Find one from a wrecker and change it. I'm a locksmith by trade and trust me in this situation a locksmith will charge more than it'll cost to do a window. If you have windscreen cover on your insurance policy then just do that

  8. #18
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    Oct 2007
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    Williamstown, Victoria
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    Thank you for your thoughts Keithy, I'm glad you found a way around that, it's not nice being locked out of your own vehicle!
    I have a single battery, not a duel set up.

    My first problem is how to gain access, unfortunately I think I'm going to have to smash the drivers window, which I really don't want to do.
    I have read access can be gained through the tailgate by applying 12 volts to the wiring, but I think the wiring is inside the vehicle, probably not accessable from the outside.
    Makes you realise how robust the security is on our P38s.
    I have read something about 'friendly synchronisation' on the later P38s, (which mine is, being a 2001), something about being able to sync the key in the ignition somehow.

    I also saw this posted on another forum by Glenhendry:
    "A very knowledgeable LR technician proved to me beyond all reasonable doubt that syncing will work if the lock is turned in ANY direction any time within 30 seconds of EITHER fob button is pressed. It is not fussy about the procedure, all it needs is a remote fob click and a door lock turn. I saw this with an elaborate bench top test kit and my own BeCM broken down into all its pieces".

    So with that info, it might be worth a shot to break in, get the door open from the inside (if thats possible), reconnect the latch part that has come adrift, and attempt to resynch the key, even though it only works to lock, following the above advice it should work, then I would be able to open the door with the physical key once again.
    That's the theory anyway!
    I will have to disconnect the horn if the alarm keeps sounding.

    That's my thinking at the moment.
    It's really my own fault, I should have had a spare key made and the original one repaired, then I wouldn't be in this situation.
    The expensive price tag of a new key put me off, but now I wish I had done that!

  9. #19
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    Oct 2007
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    Williamstown, Victoria
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    Thanks for your advice econti, the batteries in the remote were changed not all that long ago, and the red led still flashes when the buttons are pressed.
    But it might be worth a shot.
    Only drivers door has a key hole.
    Sounds like a smash entry is the best option here, there is a Land Rover wreckers not too far from here, I might even get a replacement window first, so i know I have a replacement.
    As I'll be in the drivers door anyway, it makes sense to do that one, proabably easier than the windscreen route, as I can easily change the window glass myself.

  10. #20
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    I found this info about friendly re synching if anyone is interested.

    On vehicles from 1997, friendly resynchronization was introduced on vehicles with passive immobilisation. A remote handset that is not synchronised to the BeCM will automatically be re-synchronised when the key is inserted in the ignition without using the vehicle key or Emergency Key Access (EKA) procedure. The re-synchronisation uses a pick-up coil in the remote handset and a passive coil located around the ignition barrel. The passive coil provides a signal for the remote handset to transmit an unlock signal to remobilise the vehicle.

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