Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH
I am uncertain of the features of earlier models, but my Disco 4 has a separate button for the rear tailgate which is useful to clamber through.
Saves smashing windows...just a thought.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH
I am uncertain of the features of earlier models, but my Disco 4 has a separate button for the rear tailgate which is useful to clamber through.
Saves smashing windows...just a thought.
Thank you for the suggestion Woger, I have been searching the internet and reading as much as I can like a mad man trying to work out the best way to gain entry once I have working keys again.
I did read on another forum about someone who cut the tail gate button open, extracted the inside part to get to the wiring.
From what I can gather, the tail gate switch has a constant 12v feed, he was able to use a wire and earth the switch to the tow bar, causing the tail gate to unlock and setting off the alarm.
It is unclear if the tail gate switch would still have 12v when the vehicle is in a superlocked state.
I'd rather destroy the switch than smash a window, but I'm not sure if it will work.
Thanks, Pete.
Just reading this now...the little 1/4 window in the rear doors can be fairly easily removed from outside. Or get one of those inflatable bags/pillows to spread the door frame out a little. If it is actually superlocked though, you might be in bigger trouble.
Was Lee able to make a 2nd remote/key assy or just a key blade?Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH
Thanks Scouse, the vehilce is currently superlocked, so even if I did remove the small window, the inner door handles are disabled, preventing access.
It has been an interesting learning curve, but I am getting somewhere.
I managed to pry the bottom of the drivers window open enough using a rubber door wedge, and got a borescope in there to see what is going on.
As you can see in the photo, the key barrel arm has broken, the rod that operates the lock mechanism is hanging off to the left.
Apparently that's a thing that can happen!
Lee was able to repair my existing remote, and also program a new one, also supply a replacement new handle ready to go with my key.
I'm still waiting for those to turn up, huge delays with Australia Post parcels in Melbourne at the moment.
So the theory is, I'll get the borescope in the door cavity again, use a pick up tool, (or something made with wire), to grab the end of the broken rod and move that up or down to simulate a key turn. Then I'll push the button on the repaired remote to hopefully re sync the remote.
That should give me access without breaking anything!
Then I'll be able to replace the door handle and solve the issue.
I'll report back on how it all goes, but at the moment, I'm waiting for a delayed express post delivery.
Pete.
Good step forward! When you have won the battle, it would be awsome if you could document the symptoms-solutions and we can all benefit from your pain[emoji6]
I need to pull the door cards on Rosie to solve a squeaky panel problem rather than locks so I will have a good sniff around the latch and handle linkages as well[emoji846]
Mjs
Mornington
Sorted!
I'm very pleased to say I managed to get in without breaking or smashing anything, even though I was told by mechanics that is the only way.
I got my repaired key fob back from Lee, along with another working key, plus a new drivers door handle set up to work with my key.
You can see in the first pic, the arm that pulls/pushes the rod to unlock had broken, rendering the physical key unable to unlock.
You can clearly see the broken arm, it may have been like that for a while before it fell out of the barrel.
That, along with a faulty remote, meant I was unable to gain access to the vehicle, which I accidentally superlocked when the lock failed.
To gain access, I pushed a rubber door stop into the window above the door lock, while prying out the external trim, you have to be careful, but you can get about 1cm for access.
A borescope inspection camera is essential, I doubt you'd be able to see what you are doing without one.
I tried a grabber tool and a wire loop in a pipe, with no luck, they just wouldn't hold it tight enough.
A coathanger wire with a plastic pipe over it, needs to be bent just the right way to catch the rod and press down with the pipe to capture the rod.
I have a new appreciation for keyhole surgery!
As the rod was just sitting there with nothing holding it, it was hard to capture the rod with the wire, it was just flopping around when it made contact with the wire.
But after many attempts, I did manage to hook the wire onto the rod and pushed down with the pipe to capture the rod.
Pushing down will unlock, pulling up will lock, you have to get it at the right angle to work, while pushing the keyfob button to cause a resync.
I was probably being a bit too careful to not damage anything, but a good push at the right angle is what it needs.
After much effort, the central locking popped up, I couldn't believe it!
No alarm sounded, just like that I was able to open the doors and start the engine like normal.
With the window wound down, I was able to lock and unlock with the repaired remote again, great result!
Then I replaced the drivers door handle, all is back in working order once again.
I probably could not have done this without the amazing help from Lee at LAB electronics, I can't recommend him highly enough, he is very knowledgeable with P38s and a great guy too!
Thank you to Alan on this forum for the contact details, that was a huge help.
To any P38 owner, 2 working key fobs are very important to have, that way you have a back up and can save yourself dramas like this.
Lucky for me, mine failed in a car park where a tray tow truck could drag the P38 up using skis under the tyres, it wasn't pretty, but I did manage to get it home and in my driveway at least.
If you do find yourself in this situation, whatever you do, don't panic and make things worse, sometimes it's what you don't do that saves the day.
Mine was superlocked, which required a key fob resync to resolve, but if you start smashing windows or breaking in, the vehicle may think it is being broken into and trigger an EKA key lockout.
That would be a worse situation, where the EKA code would need to be input using the method described above. I don't know if that would even be possible, although theoretically it could be done, you would have to get a lot of pushes and pulls just right, much easier with a key in the door.
I hope this helps someone in this situation, it's not where you want to find yourself!
I was without my P38 for 2 1/2 weeks while getting this resolved.
But it's not the end of the world, it is possible to fix.
Pete.
Yey!
When the door buttons jumped up you must of felt like a bank robber cracking the safe!
A lesson in patence and learnings for us all. Thx.
Mjs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saulman1010
Hi Peter, I am glad I could help. I have learnt so much from this forum it is the least I could do to help someone else when they need help. I guess all P38 owners will be out checking their door locks this weekend. I am building a mezzanine floor in my shed (6.6 mt by 9 mt ) so I have a bit on my plate at the moment, but as soon as I get some spare time I will be checking inside my drivers door.
Regards,
Alan Temperley