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Thread: Locked out! 2001 HSE.

  1. #1
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    Locked out! 2001 HSE.

    Well, it happened, after 11 years of ownership, the P38 has locked me out!
    My remote only locks it, I use the physical key to open the door, which has never been a problem until now.
    The key just turns the lock in the drivers door with no resistance, so I'm pretty sure the latch has failed in some way, probably one of the wire shafts or something has come loose, preventing the key from being able to unlock.
    I had an RACV guy try to get in, but all the locks do nothing.
    They called a locksmith who didn't want to know about it.

    So the problem at hand is I need to gain access to the vehicle.
    Once I'm in I can get it sorted.
    I know I can pry the small window out, but if the locks will not unlock, I'm still locked out.
    I'm pretty stuck here, any suggestions will be very welcome.
    The remote is still working, the locks will only lock with the remote.
    I don't want to trigger an EKA code lockout if it can be helped.
    What can I do?
    Thanks, Pete.

  2. #2
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    Having a think about it, I have probably unwittingly superlocked the car, which may be why the locks are unresponsive.
    I really need to get access, preferably without smashing glass or making things worse.
    Is there a remote repair service in Australia that deals with P38s?
    Thanks, Pete.

  3. #3
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    Dang.
    What a mess.
    I'm sure the brains trust will jump on me but I don't think AU spec P38's had EKA code enabled.
    Its irrelevant anyway as you say the key lock has failed.
    The only thing I can think of is to break and enter and change the door lock.
    But if you disconnect the battery the BECM will go into sulk mode and will need unlocking.
    When you say the unlock button on the remote didn't work, could you try to pull it apart and see if you can trigger an unlock - jumping the connections for the switch. That assumes the remote is synchronised which it must be. But then again, you mustn't take the battery out - an unsychonised remote won't help your battle.

    Hmmmm.....thinking.....

    Mjs

  4. #4
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    Thank you so much for your thoughts Saulman1010, yes you can see the problems!
    I had a thought to call LR and order a new key for mine, I know it's not cheap, but it just might get me in again using the remote function.
    I don't want to make things worse, so I'm doing my homework before doing anything else.
    Yes the remote is synced and works, except it only locks, not unlocks.
    If I can get access and get the door open, I can deal with it from there.
    Cheers, Pete.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saulman1010 View Post
    I'm sure the brains trust will jump on me but I don't think AU spec P38's had EKA code enabled.
    Yes they did. Any dealer will be able to give it to you.
    But I agree this may not fix the problem. It sounds like the door actuator is functioning but with not enough travel to unlock.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  6. #6
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    Does the light in the fob come on to unlock?
    if not probably the microswitch has failed or has broken solder.
    You can get microswitches at Jaycar and a phone fixer should be able to resolder or replace the microswitch.
    Regards PhilipA
    PS I am 72 , with poor close vision and clumsy but I can do it so it's not all that difficult.

  7. #7
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    But if the vehicle is superlocked and you break in - becm will be disabled. "Sulk mode"
    Also, how will you synchronise the new remote to the lock if you can't use they key? Can that be done in the ignition?
    Strip the remote and jumper the push button is where I'm heading.


    Mjs

  8. #8
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    Thank you Phillip, yes the light in the fob does work when either button is pressed, but both buttons lock the car, not unlock.
    I have read on another forum someone took their remote to a TV repair guy and he was able to get it working again, I didn't think of a phone repair place, thank you for the suggestion.
    If I could get the remote to unlock the car, I might be out of trouble.
    Thank you, Pete.

  9. #9
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    You are probably on the right track Saulman1010, I have never pulled the remote apart other than to change the battery, so I don't really know what i'm looking at.
    The fact that both buttons lock, it does sound like some sort of fault in the remote.
    I wouldn't know what I was looking for though if I did get it apart.
    Possibly a short somewhere, causing the lock signal to be sent from both buttons, rather than the unlock signal from the unlock button.

  10. #10
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    The remotes clip together and are glued. You may have to get aggressive with a Stanley knife but the outer cases only are on ebay quite cheap.
    Be ready to catch little spring.
    Leave the circuit board in the battery side of the remote to keep it powered up.
    Mjs

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