
Originally Posted by
AK83
I did a google search for that particular quoted sentence, and found an exact copy of it from this website:
LARGE website
If this is where you found this info, did you continue on to read the article past the calcium section battery info section and into the Calcium vs AGM section?
If this isn't where you got your info, and possibly the info you found was a direct copy of the info in the Large website, do take the time to read the info in the AGM vs Calcium section.
Of particular note is where they state the charge requirements for both AGM and Calcium type batteries.
AGM needing 14.7v and Calcium needing 14.4v!!!
Initial thinking would be that maybe it's a typo, but continue reading and they continue to say that if you charge a Calcium battery using an AGM mode charger(ie. at 14.7v) the calcium battery will boil it's electrolyte as that level of charge will increase the Ca battery temperature.
So if the Calcium battery charging at 14.7v may overheat and possibly boil it's electrolyte, then how on earth can they justify suggesting a charge voltage of 14.8v!!!
So then the question comes into mind .. is the original suggestion of 14.8v a typo instead?
Either way .. considering the conflicting info .. me thinks, maybe best to avoid any technical info or suggestions from them.
On a personal note: I had a Delkor Calcium battery in my old 79 RRC for many years .. maybe 10+ or more. Was a good battery as I remember. I did also install an Aux battery a few years later into the spare battery slot and built a kit battery switching device to charge it.
IIRC the puny old Lucas alternator it originally had wasn't capable of more than about 14v, and once settled the charge out of it was in the mid to high 13's .. and yet still that Delkor lasted 10+ years.
Old Lucas alternators fail every year, just a day or two after the warranty period expires!(well mine did). I had it rebuilt so many times .. got sick of it at about the third rebuild, and found a nicer 80A Bosch unit that fit in the same space.
Again, made no difference to the operation of the Delkor. It did finally die tho, and this was due to the RRC sitting for a good couple of years unloved in any way.
I think batteries die, no matter how well you look after them. Just plain old dumb luck in having received a dud off the production line.
In my D1, I got a largest capacity Century that I could fit in there, off a retail shelf as it was needed there and then.
It died(dropped cell) in about 10 months. Eventually replaced by the retailer, and the replacement also started to feel like it was losing cranking capacity(for the Tdi).
But it's still working, need to keep it topped up a bit as the car isn't driven as much now.
Both batteries performed exactly the same way. First 6 months they would easily hold full charge overnight without problem ambient didn't matter either. That is, 12.7 volts.
D1's alternator charges them initially at about 14.3-14.4v then slowly decreases voltage as the battery gets topped up.
This is with no drain(ie. electrical draw) on them. Add electrical draw(wipers, AC/Fan, lights/highbeam/driving lights .. etc) charge voltage will be lower.
Once the battery has received back it's 'full charge'(I assume) eg. with no electrical draw, I then see between 13.8 and 14.0 volts.
I have two volt meters connected pretty much all the time. With a load, or many loads, on in the car(as before say wipers, brake lights, headlights... etc, the normal 'settled' charging level can be as low as 13.5v.
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