Leaky seal....
So, I had the rotors, pads and ball joints done about 1000klm ago.
As this is a task beyond what my bad hands will do I had a mechanic I thought I could trust do it.
Now I have an oil leak on the axle seal.
A new LR specialist I am hoping will do the right thing by Rosie stated the new ball joints were not installed correctly ( apparently there is an alignment tool?)
After some adjustment the oil leak has slowed but it appears the seal has failed.
After all that, my question is how can the axle be forced out of alignment by ball joints, enough to cause a seal to fail and not destroy the CV or the axle bearing?
There is no bearing noise (yet) - should I replace the CV joint as well? (360k old)
Over to the brains trust.....
Mjs
Leaky seal....
Ahh bugger, don't you hate that!
I'll guess the seal was damaged when the axle was removed, the seal may have been on it's last legs, the act of removing and replacing the axle may have caused it to leak.
If I were doing that job, I'd probably just put new axle seals in while it was apart anyway, much easier than having to pull it apart again.
The only other thing I can think of is worn, or incorrect adjustment of the wheel bearing is allowing a small amount of axle movement, causing oil to escape.
I have not heard of aligning the ball joints, as far as I know, once they are done up and seated, there is only one position they can be in.
If your CV joint is quiet, I'd just leave it alone, unless you have reason to want to replace it.
I hope the mechanic broke in the new pads and rotors for you, (a series of hard braking to heat them up), otherwise over time, they can warp and cause brake wobble.
Hope that is of some help!
Pete.
I made the mistake once to replace the front axle seals with a non-automotive part but one from a local hardware shop (used in large stationary machines etc.) Turns out that the automotive ones, certainly those in the front axle of the P38, are made a bit like the seal in your laundry machine ie they can move up and down a fair bit to deal with vibrations and such. A broken wheel bearing (I've been through quite a few over the past few years) has never been enough to cause that kinda leakage. It did strand me by the side of the road once because the wheel was so badly scraping against the break caliper... but no oil.
I guess the seal has indeed been damaged during the last maintenance or at least got a bit of a push over the edge due to age.
Regarding the CV, indeed, if there is nothing wrong with it (no play, no sounds) I'd leave it. A regrease is as far as I would go and check the boot.
-P
The hub carrier height is adjustable:
Land Rover Workshop Manuals > Range Rover P38 > 60 - FRONT SUSPENSION - ELECTRONIC AIR SUSPENSION > REPAIR > SWIVEL HUB - CHECK/ADJUST (workshop-manuals.com)
The seal has quite a bit of movement allowance by design but I guess it can only go so far.
Scott
The seal was replaced. A few dribbles since but let's see if it dries up.
I'm not convinced damage hasnt been done by the previous.monkeys who I trusted.
I still have the abs sensors to be replaced cos they wrecked them too.
Mjs
srsly, HOW do you damage an abs sensor with a job like that?
GL mate.
ah yes and used the american screw driver to try and pry the hub off...
Replaced Ball joints, Cv's etc a while ago, at same time installed new Land Rover Seals - Twice!
Finally found out that best Seals to use are NAK brand so I purchased a set and no more leaks!!
go figure
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks