Hi AJV,
is there any of the bolt protruding or is it broken off below the surface?
Regards,
Alan
Hi all,
Recently aquired a p38 (was eyes wide open before I got it )
Have commenced valve block refurb with the XR8 oring kit after detecting a leak on one of the ports.
Got all the way through, however one of the Allen bolts sheared and broke in the diaphragm block (was stiff but not anymore than the others and was easily on its way out when it broke)
Any thoughts/opinions what I should do here? Not at all versed in metal in alu broken screw removal.
Thanks!
AJ
Hi AJV,
is there any of the bolt protruding or is it broken off below the surface?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Allen.
It sheared above the surface of the block. Maybe 10mm or so. Ive managed to get two m5 nuts over it to try and use the two nut trick, but didnt work, just not quite enough length. Ive had a go with combi pliers as well...
Hi AJV,
do you have any way to heat the valve block? A heat gun would do if you do not have any thing else. And a pair of vice grips should be what you need to get it out.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan,
No I don't have any setup to apply direct heat at the moment. There is enough there to dremel a notch to try a phillips head, but failing that I'll try and source something to heat it with. This is all firsts for me.
Also do you think a standard stainless steel M5 50mm hex bolt is going to be ok as a replacement? I was unable to source 5mmx50mm socket heads...
AJ
You don't specify your location .. just Vic.
If it's urban/city Vic, then a trip to any hardware store, or cheap as chips type $2 shop you can find a cheapo butane gas heat torch for a few $s will get the job done.
If you are close to a Bunnings/Mitre 10 type hardware store you can easily locate a corded heat gun(air type) for not a lot of $s will also do the job on Aluminium too.
Personally, I wouldn't continue on, as it most likely will just keep on breaking off as you continually try to remove it. Mind you it may also come out too .. but up to you if you want to risk it.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
where abouts are you (flick a PM or call me from the one I'm about to send you...)
I'm between work and moving ATM so if you're not too far I might be able to drop over and work some magic for you.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks heaps for the tips.
I spent this arvo with the butane torch on it. Still no luck after several heatups and sweating on the vice grips.
More penetrant and another go with the dremel as there was still some screw to have another go with a phillips head. Not luck and lost most of the screw to the attempts.
This looks now to be a drill out job...Which it being 5mm thread into a machined alu block is going to be interesting. Any thoughts on where to go from here?
Aj
I've got a stack of old P38 valve blocks if you have no joy or the worst happens.
04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
91 Kawasaki GPZ900R
Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8
Well update. Ive lost some of the bolt in the block. Had access to a workshop to try and weld a nut to screw it out but the weld kept breaking. A carbide tip got most of it out. But not a fan of the outcome.
Will reinstall and test for leaks see how we go. But a spare available I think would be great.
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks