I had to replace the heater core because it cracked here:
cracked_heater_core.jpg
So I put in a brand new core, put the dash back together and it leaked even more:
holed_heater_core.jpg
Hi folks,
I have been working on my P38, replacing the heater core. I had replaced the 'O' rings when I rebuilt the motor. So I was a bit annoyed when I saw the tel tale drips of green coolant on the carpet. But when I got deeper into the job it looks more like the core is leaking from the joint between the plastic tank and the header plate on the core. I looked a fitting a Audi core but I did not think it was a very good alternative. It looks it still has plastic tanks and more possible leaks from the extra connections. So I was thinking while working at fixing my fresh/recirc door motors while I have the dash out, has anyone thought about modifying the original heater core. Except for the plastic tank and the single screw holding the pipes in it is a good looking heater core. The core is made with copper tubes so they should not corrode like alloy ones. I think I could make a brass tank which I would solder to the the original header plate. I think I would also make new copper pipes and a better fixing plate with maybe 5 screws instead of just one. Just thinking out loud. Has anyone got any ideas or advice.
Regards,
Alan
I had to replace the heater core because it cracked here:
cracked_heater_core.jpg
So I put in a brand new core, put the dash back together and it leaked even more:
holed_heater_core.jpg
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
G'Day Alan,
I am just in the final stages of "dash out" heater core replacement etc. on my '97 4.6 HSE. Original O rings were leaking, heater core looked great however I had a new britpart item here so I've fitted that. As I had removed the entire heater/AC box I checked and cleaned it all out (the AC evaporator drain holes were blocked) and put new foam seals on all ducting etc. Dash back in now and doing cruise control diagnosis prior to finishing it up. Fitted new AC compressor as old one had a seal leak. It's a bit of work but don't plan on doing it again. Needed to cut each duct going to the rear and one cut to metal brace on drivers side. Easily reversed on assembly.
I reckon the Audi core is a good idea but if my new LR core is good I'll be happy. Don't go with a brass core, the efficiency factor is terrible.
Alan
Hi Ron,
I bet you were cranky when the second one leaked. But it could have been fixed with a bit of solder.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Ozzyal,
why did you need to cut the ducts to the rear? I am not proposing to make a whole new heater core out of brass. Just replace the crappy plastic tank with a brass one. The original heater core has copper tubes so that part of the core is good. And then maybe make new copper pipes with 2 'O' ring seals on each and 5 or 6 bolts to hold the pipes in. Anyway a solid brass heater core would be OK most of the time up here in Queensland. I am just not sure a Audi heater core is the way to go.
Regards,
Alan
I have a vague memory of this exercise... I did the O-rings but my recollection was that the Audi solution meant that future O-ring replacements could be done on the engine side of the firewall without disturbing the core. Also the Audi core was not a straight fit...there was a bit of "surgery" required re brackets etc...
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
G'Day Al,
I was removing the entire Heater/AC box and to get these two ducts out in original shape did not look like it was going to happen. A quick cut 2/3 of the way up and no probs. Replace and then rejoin using heavy duty Aluminium tape and perfect.
Yes I understand QLD and heaters not so much of an issue
Hi Folks,
I finished the heater core job. And while I was in there I removed the fresh recirc vents and freed-ed up the motors and replaced the foam seals and refitted. Then I fitted some filters I had purchased to get rid of the buzzing noise in the speakers. I had made and fitted some filters in the doors attached to each amp wiring. These improved to sound a lot but there was still some noise. I had reassembled the dash and was listing to some tunes admiring the clear sound and then a loud bang and no more sound. I had lost all outputs from the RCA's. I had to remove the consol etc. and rewire the sound system using the amplified outputs and run new wiring to all the speakers. I replaced the mid range speakers as one was knackered. And while the dash was out I fitted the electric trailer brake controller out of my old P38. I will add a photo later. The heater core was cracked like the one Ron replaced first in his P38. And it also looked like the there was coolant leaking from the gasket between the core and the plastic tank. But I am happy with all the work and she is back on the road without the book symbol on the climate control computer.
Regards,
Alan
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