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Thread: Help ...key fob won't unlock immobiliser.

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keithy P38 View Post
    G’day mate,

    I’ve not read all of the responses thoroughly as yet, but I can’t see anyone directly answering your question either.

    To answer your question -

    Can you disable the immobiliser on the doors and just use a key?

    YES!
    This is done by disabling via a Nanocom or the like. I have done this when my key batteries died, in order to prevent issues with the immobiliser until I could replace the battery. It will allow you to drive the car still until it’s all fixed.

    thanks Keithy ….. anyone in the Sydney region with a nano com? Happy to pay !! Car worked for a wee
    If the immobiliser is disabled can the superlock still be used?
    YES!
    This is done by turning the key back (anti-clockwise) a second time when locking the doors. Note: You will need to turn the key twice clockwise to remove the superlock.

    The tailgate operates off the lock command to the drivers door, so if it’s locking and unlocking by itself, the tailgate lock is doing the exact same thing. That’s a trap for young players 😝

    In the event that the drivers door locks itself, look over at the passenger door, it’s likely that it will not be locked, should you be experiencing the door lock chatter. This will allow you to enter the cab if you’ve left the keys inside.

    Cheers
    Keithy
    thanks Keithy ….. anyone in the Sydney region with a nano com? Happy to pay !! Car worked for a week then key not unlocking engine imobilizer. Replaced batteries in remote … no good …. Eventually having success by opening the bonnet which set off the alarm , inserted key into the ignition to turn off the alarm and walah I could also start the car!!
    Nano com to turn off the imobilizer sounds the go , as is replacing the door latch . Thankyou guys . Tried for weeks now to get the car into roving mechanical ( usually good) to remove becm to send away)won’t even return calls.
    Again will pay handsomely for nano com help! Thanx Paul 0413631299

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    How did you go mate? Did you end up getting a nanocom and sort things out?

    Cheers
    Keithy

    2002 P38 Range Rover HSE

    Sequential LPG - Redarc Charger - TPMS - Ashcroft Locker
    Wheel Carrier - Bullbar & Spotlights - 285/75/16 BFG KM3’s
    On Board Solar - Stainless Snorkel - 2” Suspension Lift

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.k View Post
    Again will pay handsomely for nano com help! Thanx Paul 0413631299
    Can't help with your P38 issues, but i will say that a Nanocom is to me a must have for the cars that can use one. There are so many things it can do, once you come to terms with the interface......
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Can't help with your P38 issues, but i will say that a Nanocom is to me a must have for the cars that can use one. There are so many things it can do, once you come to terms with the interface......

    Hmmm bought nano com but not successful . I turned off the alarm ( worked a treat) and engine imobilizer.Saved the settings . Says it worked but put the key in and turn and says engine imobilized. Unlock the doors with the remote and it starts.
    Drivers Door lock definitely definitely playing up . Button not going up . But this should not have prevented the imobilizer from being removed.
    ****kkkk!!!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Have you replaced the drivers door latch mechanism yet?
    Sounds like the actuator might be playing up too, if the button isn't popping up, but I would do the latch first.
    This is likely the cause of your problems, or at least part of the problem.

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