Just got home, on the back of a truck :(

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Originally Posted by ScottW

Now my rangie is a 1998 P38, 4.0L, which I don't know that much about, but the earlier rangies have removable axles, long ones in the rear, and short ones on the front. I'll have to check, but mine should be the same. So hopefully I can simply unbolt the hubs, remove the front axles and drive the car to into the garage.

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Regrettably, the P38A doesn't have fully floating axles lke the classic so you'll not be able to do that.

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Originally Posted by ScottW

Also, there is a 83 rangie sitting in our yard ready to be stripped for parts. Does anyone know how different the diffs will be? I'm guessing I can't just swap over the hubs and brakes and use the older diff. I have no idea what the ratio would be, but I can always count the teeth.

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Very different. The only similarity is that the diff ratio is the same at 3.54:1. Nothing else is the same - even the number of splines differ. An '83 model is a 10-spline diff.

I wonder if you have a seized VC. Hmm, maybe not if the fronts don't move at all. What happens if you jack both wheels off the ground at the same time? With one wheel on the ground it is quite difficult to rotate a the other wheel against the VC. If the diff is rotating OK, then with both wheels off the ground the wheels should rotate OK.

See if you can put the transfer case into neutral. See the owner's manual on how to do this. You put a fuse into F11 in the BECM fusebox under the RH front seat.

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Towing the vehicle on four-wheels
If it is necessary to recover the vehicle by
towing on all four wheels, select transfer
neutral as follows:
• With the starter key removed, insert a fuse
(5 amps or greater) in fuse position 11 in
the right hand seat fuse box. Insert key
and turn the starter switch on; the transfer
box will automatically select neutral (wait
until the message centre displays
’TRANSFER NEUTRAL’), then turn the
starter switch off.
• Turn the starter switch to position ’I’ to
unlock the steering and leave in this
position while the vehicle is being towed.
• To re-engage HIGH or LOW range after
towing, turn the starter switch off, remove
the fuse from position 11, then turn the
starter switch on and press the range
change switch (manual gearbox) - the
transfer box will engage the HIGH or LOW
gear range.

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Unfortunately I only had the little red factory jack in the car, so I only did one wheel at a time. There is a proper jack in the garage though. The fun will begin when I get it off the footpath.

I should have checked all the fluids when I got it, but I've been busy fixing my old car so I can sell it. At least it's fixed so I can drive it in the meantime.

I'm only familiar with RRC's (carb models actually) so there are a few new things to learn. I think I'll be taking the laptop with the rave CD up to the garage. Might need some gladwrap over the keyboard though :)

Shame the diffs are completely different, but I guess it's a bit much to ask in hoping they were similar.

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Originally Posted by p38arover

See if you can put the transfer case into neutral. See the owner's manual on how to do this. You put a fuse into F11 in the BECM fusebox under the RH front seat.

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Man these cars are complex :D

scott, thanks for the location, you are just out the back of me.
i don't know much about p38's, but i am nearby.
sending pm.

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Originally Posted by harry

scott, thanks for the location, you are just out the back of me.
i don't know much about p38's, but i am nearby.
sending pm.

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While you are at it ... explain to him about the "fix" for the ABS system that Blacknight has developed for his model

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

While you are at it ... explain to him about the "fix" for the ABS system that Blacknight has developed for his model

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Tell me, too.

Or do you mean the EAS?

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Tell me, too.

Or do you mean the EAS?

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You got me head scratching on "which is which" right now
but i mean't this Post

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/range-rove...ease-read.html

Actually .. I just re'read the post and it's by HSE30


:)

Ahh. I have one of Russell's brake kits for mine.

I know I have a Defender, but my old one did exactly the same thing, but at 110Km/h on the Hume, turned out the front diff level was low and it threw a pinion bearing in a spectacular way (VERY loud bang with one hell of a shudder , then once the car got to about 5 k's it locked up. the front wheels screeched up on to the flatbed truck.
I just replaced the whole diff centre with one from a wreckers.

Once you have it on stands, drop the front prop shaft, turn the wheels, if the wheels turn in opposite directions, and you can't turn them the same direction at the same time, the problem is the diff.
if you can turn them the same direction at the same time, the problem is nearer the engine, ie. transfer case.


Fraser