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Thread: P38 4wd Ability - newbie question

  1. #1
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    Exclamation P38 4wd Ability - newbie question

    Hi,

    I have a 1992 manual discovery on gas, 2 inch lift, mud tyres etc (good ol girl) but getting tired.
    I am thinking about swapping over to a P38 1996-1999? as i do more road driving than off road and the rest of the family likes the leather push button options (ok i like them too).

    That said i still want to be able to get offroad but i don't know enough about the P38 abilities and besides "yeah they are ok" i haven't seen much comment on the forums. The discovery will go almost anywhere. What are the limitations of the P38?

    Most of my 4WD work is bush tracks, steep rocky climbs and some limited sand and mud work. I think the P38 could handle this but would like those who know to comment. What sort of upgrades will bring it closer to the disco.

    I can probably pick up a later model petrol or diesel discovery with leather for less than a P38 but i am a bit spell bound at the moment. Don't let me near a sales person and remind me of this post when the electrics start to fail.
    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    A set of mudders on a P38 and you won't look back. The later ones have 4wheel traction control, and with the EAS set at max height you'll eat the disco for breakfast offroad.

    They are big and heavy though, but simply amazing where they'll go!

    (Don't get me started on the electronics though)

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Thanks

    Thanks Justinc.

    Now i am getting more interested although agreed the electrics do worry me.

    I will start to check the forums for the major faults but again if someone wants to let me know what to watch out for when buying a second hand RR that would be great.

  4. #4
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    Which year 1995 -1999 is best and why?

  5. #5
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    1995 - 1998 are much the same.
    1999 saw the introduction of the Bosch EMS which improved the engine performance somewhat, especially down low.


    The electrics aren't really a big issue.
    Most cars would have had the upgrades done to the A/C by now & the EAS isn't a problem when repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.
    Scott

  6. #6
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    Do you do maintenance yourself or have a good LR Independant Garage?
    Are you computer literate?
    Are you willing to fix things at the first sign of trouble?
    Are you willing to drive the best 4X4XFar?

    If you answer yes to all these questions then go the P38. I've had mine now for 3months, and just love getting in and going for a long drive, they are really like driving an armchair.

    1995 - 1999.5 - GEMS (LUCAS) fuel management, which was very advanced for its time, 2 Wheel Traction Control on HSE's, Easily identifiable by the large square plenum cover with 4.0 or 4.6 stamped on it.

    1999.5 - 2002 - BOSCH fuel mangement, More low down torque with better economy, CAN Networking was incorporated to some systems, 4 Wheel ETC, Upgraded Trims more plusher than ever. Don't be fooled the only electrical change here was the Engine ECU and some wiring, still uses the same BeCM. There were more upgrades, but these were the major ones. Easily Identifiable by the "rib-cage" plenum chamber. This motor was also a little harder to work on.


    Electronics - The biggest problem electrically is the BeCM, a computer that sits under the drivers seat, and basically controls everything from sending the immobilise code to the Engine ECU, to stopping a window closing if something (say an arm) gets jammed. The actual electronic part is OK, what tends to happen is people don't notice the leaking heater core pipes, and the water leaks down into the drivers foot well too make a nice steamy sauna for the BeCM . As long as you keep a good batery and alternator you should be right.

    EAS - The suspension in the P38 is awesome when its working. I can put ski's on my roof, hit the button and crawl under a 1.9m Carpark. Using a cable and plug from Jaycar, an old PDA, a soldering iron and some free software I can now fix/calbirate/reset my EAS whereever I am, all for ~$20. Once again you just need to keep on top of the trouble signs.

    Problems I have had:
    Suspected Cracked block (needs new motor, looking at a Gen III 5.7 conversion)
    Heater O-Rings
    Broken Shock-Absorber
    Suspect Gearbox is on the way
    Ummmm Thats it for the moment

    Considering the car has done 260000k's and most previous owners used it for towing, I don't think I can complain.

    Check out Range Rovers forum which has everything on the P38 you can imagine.

    As somebody once said:

    "Ownership of a RR is like dating a Super Hot Super Model.

    She drives you insane with her insecurities, but every time she steps out the shower, you forget about them.

    She makes you want to throw her off a balcony with her never ending nagging about inane things, but you forgive her because you feel like a God amongst men when you and her show up to events and you are the envy of every man.

    She can beat the crap out of any other girl when it comes to getting the last Prada bag on sale at Barney's, but heaven forbid there is a spider in the kitchen - she yells for you like the Mummy just came for her; yet you forgive her because when she holds you tightly in fear, it all makes sense again.

    Being with her is exciting because you never know what each morning or day with her brings.

    That gentlemen is why we date.... opps... I mean drive these cars! "


    I still go to the kitchen window to have a perv into the garage. A RR look good anywhere. Mine will cost me money, but there is no-way she is going anywhere.

    Hope this helps

    Stu
    Last edited by 81stubee; 21st August 2008 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Put quote in italics

  7. #7
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    Well Stu has wrapped it all up.

    Nothing I can add to that.

    Except maybe to comment on the standard sound system in the HSE. I have yet to come across a vehicle with a better sounding system (as standard of course).

    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  8. #8
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    P38 -Thanks Stu

    I will now start looking a little harder. The one i was interested in got sold - damn for sitting on the fence.

    Oh well another will come along.

    Yes to most of the things you raised.

    What about 4.0 V 4.6?

    Cheers,
    Remy

  9. #9
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    as for your question there isnt a standard 4x4 made that can match a range rover off road period full stop...simply the best....but im biased..lol

  10. #10
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    Agreed and Yeah, Dave's right about the HSE's sound system, "Awesome" I can't hear it distort before my ears hit the pain barrier

    Once again best to look at the range rover forum, but:

    4.0 vs 4.6

    4.0lt Was in the base model and SE, Same size motor as that used in the 3.9 Series I Disco, but with different Engine Management, and some different components, ie no distibutor, later type oil pump etc. The 4.0lt was also upgraded in 99 to the bosch plenum chamber and ECU

    4.6 was fitted to HSE's (Top Model) With all the extra fruit, like ETC, Electric Memory seats, Harmon Kardon Sound (11 speakers - awsome) etc...

    Where are you located? Speak to a good Landrover Mechanic, I can give you a list if your in Victoria.

    Watch out for engines that show ANY signs of overheating. By the time the P38 motors were made the moulds and tooling used were quite old technology with fairly high tollerances. This combined with enlarging the bore to 94mm and landrover's excellent QA processes, meant that some blocks had a "Core Shift". The walls of the Alluminium cylinders were very thin around the water jacket. All Blocks were graded into Red/Yellow/Blue. Red I think had the thickest walls and were made into 4.6's, Yellow were Graded OK for 4.6 but generally used for 4.0lt while blue were usually destroyed. Colours might be the other way round but I think thats the way it worked.

    What happens when they overheat is that the block cracks in that thin walled section and coolant escapes into the cylinder.

    Stu

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