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Thread: 99 RR LPG system not working

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pomonastik View Post
    i still don't see that any of these problems necessarily relate to the loss of the ability to run on gas. can you 'force' gas mode from the switch (yellow light ON) if so do all three solenoids click when you switch on ignition? .
    I changed the leads to bigger NGK items, changed the coolant, went for a drive on gas and petrol, all okay. The following day, started on gas, went for around 40 min drive, about 5 or 6 times, car power dropped out and nearly stalled when on gas. Stopped put onto petrol. After that, the yellow light on the gas gauge flashes, with the engine light on the dash illuminated. I've tried to switch either way, but it stays on petrol.

    I've contacted an LPG fitter who said it could be the tacho wire from the gas computer or the solenoid on the vapour line. They weren't sure about the filling problems. I'm not too keen on going back to the fitter as I've been stuffed around already.

    I'll have to get someone to take a listen when i turn the ignition on for the solenoids, as the abs/compressor makes a bit of noise on start. Where do I look for the tank valve, it's a donut tank, I take it underneath?

  2. #12
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    "changed the coolant,"
    &
    "nearly stalled when on gas"
    could it be an airlock in the gas vapouriser part of the cooling circuit ? to test this theory run on petrol enough to open thermostat and have full flow for a while, then feel input/output water lines from the unit. on my classic using an OMVL unit the hoses and the vapouriser would both be HOT to the touch by then, proving adequate water flow.
    i'm not sure of the correct air purging method for your model but someone on here will know.
    jeez it would be a cheap fix if that was it.......

    sorry, don't know much about doughnut tanks. when you find it investigate the manual stop-tap that's probably there too. a very useful thing to know of you ever have any form of fire, even if only to tell the firee where it is 'cos its the first question he/she is going to ask you !

  3. #13
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    The valve could be in the centre of the tank (in the doughnut hole). Remove the cover (if it has one) and look in there.

    Mine is in there.

    There will be another solenoid near or on the converter under the bonnet.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pomonastik View Post
    sorry, don't know much about doughnut tanks. when you find it investigate the manual stop-tap that's probably there too. a very useful thing to know of you ever have any form of fire, even if only to tell the firee where it is 'cos its the first question he/she is going to ask you !
    If mine catches fire, I won't be opening the wheel well and removing the screwed down cover over the valve to shut it off. The car can burn! I'm not gunna be incinerated.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #15
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    If mine catches fire, I won't be opening the wheel well and removing the screwed down cover over the valve to shut it off. The car can burn! I'm not gunna be incinerated.
    ron, i don't want to be alarmist BUT
    its not unknown for a car's occupant/s to be trapped in the vehicle after a collision has occurred. the ambos and road rescue folks want to know two things from the firies before they go to work, is gas turned off and is the battery disconnected ? the only way we can guarantee this to them is if we've turned off the gas valve and physically disconnected the battery terminal. in theory of course if the battery is disconnected then the gas solenoids are shut too but as it's not unknown for airbags to detonate after we've cut the juice so we like to make sure on the gas side too.
    i think i'm also right in believing that the only way to isolate the fill line is via the valve. i may be wrong but seeing as fill lines are often within the impact damage area they can be damaged too.

    back on thread i have 3 solenoids on my system, one on the tank, one on the vapouriser and theres another on the stop valve with the filter in on the inner guard.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pomonastik View Post
    could it be an airlock in the gas vapouriser part of the cooling circuit ? to test this theory run on petrol enough to open thermostat and have full flow for a while, then feel input/output water lines from the unit. on my classic using an OMVL unit the hoses and the vapouriser would both be HOT to the touch by then, proving adequate water flow.
    i'm not sure of the correct air purging method for your model but someone on here will know.
    jeez it would be a cheap fix if that was it.......

    sorry, don't know much about doughnut tanks. when you find it investigate the manual stop-tap that's probably there too. a very useful thing to know of you ever have any form of fire, even if only to tell the firee where it is 'cos its the first question he/she is going to ask you !
    yes, it could possibly be an airlock though the hoses do feel hot. I'll have a look at the tank. I was going to add a fire extinguisher to the car, but due to the explosive nature of gas, I'd be out of there too in an incident!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    The valve could be in the centre of the tank (in the doughnut hole). Remove the cover (if it has one) and look in there.

    Mine is in there.

    There will be another solenoid near or on the converter under the bonnet.
    I don't think the tank has a cover as it is the biggest round donut available to fit the spare wheel well. My system seems to have 3 solenoids also, I'm going to get some help to see if all 3 click when powered.

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