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Thread: P38 engine removal

  1. #1
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    P38 engine removal

    Hi all,

    I am about to remove the 4.6 out of the p38. Heads are off. Do I need to do anything special to the torque converter? Any other advice greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Stu

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Give the screws on the exhaust heat shields a good soak in WD40 or Penetrene.

    The RHS one is a pain to remove. I recommend removiing the wheel arch liner and the steering column. Make sure you align the wheels straight ahead and remove the ignition key first! You don't want the steering wheel turning and damaging the rotary coupler.

    You'll need a LONG extension to remove the three nuts on each exhaust manifold to down pipe joint. You may need a thin wall socket, too.

    You'll have to lower the motor a little to get to the top few bolts on the bell housing. Maybe not if the heads are off but you will on reassembly if you fit a complete motor.

    Have your flex plate checked for cracks or just replace it (about $90). When refitting it, don't use the workshop manual spec of 45Nm torque. The plate will fret. There was a TSB increasing the torque to 60Nm. If it is damaged, check the nose of the torque converter and the hub aligner into which it fits. There must be no wear there.

    Check the oil pump gears. I think Davis Perrformance Landys Loctite the screws so it won't come apart.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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