Ralph's Pic
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...s-image018.jpg
Printable View
Mines exactly the same. Always 1mm above 1/2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Remy
PS: I'll get the radiator info for you later today.
My 98 is the same too, just a smidgen above half way, even in the 30+ heat on the weekend with the air-con going. I feel a little more at ease now.
I don't know if it is true but I have been told that the temp gauge has a doodad (sp) in the wiring that stops it from showing gradual temp increases. It will sit at half until the red light goes on then move straight to the top:eek:
Aparently it is designed like this so that the dealers don't get bothered by worried owners when the gauge moves up a bit on hot days.......
I've had this happen to me when my radiator return line broke on a highway run, I watched it jump from middle to top when the light caught my eye. Then it went back to half even though I'd lost a hell of a lot of rad fluid before there was any warning, so it had to have been running hot for a while.
well in mine when useing in sydney traffic stop start in 35c hot days i can tell you doesent stay still at 1/2, more 3/4 (up n down )untill i conected the frount fans than stayed constantish 1/2ish only then . also driveing at night temp shows 1/4 as well .at oran park 4x4 track last year was again moveing up down between as above ,not standing still .on 21/12 /08 haveing lroc kids day all day drive at oran park 4x4 track will be interesting to see with twin fans working this time in low range what it will do ,i think will be big difference to last time i know will run colder ,can not wait for that//// let yous know my findings .ps remember twin fans when conected and running at the frount cool not only auto gearbox/air condensor radiator but motor as well good safe guard.
I think you have a cooling system problem or 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by rofosixone
Going up to 3/4 in traffic is not a good sign & neither is sitting on 1/4 at night.
may be i have a sensitive temp gauge that works and doesent sit on 1/2 hot or cold or may be have a rust free new ,(not 12 year old ) temp sender (amr1425-b) 300tdi/v8efi list $3540 to suit 96 /4L v8 ,payed less of coarse i recently brought from rovacraft at mascot that is sensitive to changes .i think the latttttttttterrrrrr cheers ,ralph.
No worries but I've been around these cars since they were new & I feel your temp readings aren't quite right.
Just my thoughts.
been to oran park 4wd track today (kids day) here are my findings .last year temp was between 1/2 and 3/4 .today now found temp was running between 1/4 and 1/2,and driveing to oran park from liverpool way temp was 1/4 .conclusion as in what did i do to make my 4L v8 p38a run cooler than last year with out changeing radiator , 1 //////running the twin fans when swiching on air con useing the above crimp metheod /2 ///// running z9 oil filter (bigger and 10 dollars cheaper than std short one )3 useing penright dextron 2 for transfer 2L and auto gearbox 5L (graeme cooper automotive sugestion ,they found runs cooler and doesent use ,and so have i in both my cars i noticed it too and motor has 5.5L of xld oil with z9 .reg flush radiator water every 20,000km and add nulon rad concentrate (see ronalds pic above his rad full of rust ,i dont have that problem) .and just in case you come back to me on temp sender being different ,no its the same but newish . try this scott and tell me do u notice it running cooler too without buying new radiator ,might save you a slipped linner or cracked block in future ,cheers ralph.ps noticed you have fog lights on your profileish pic above , isent that obstruction to the air flow ???????
Have just been doing a pre trip once over on the car and noticed the electric fans never seem to come on. Did a search and found this thread which clarifies this is normal. I would however like to by pass the switch outlined in this thread but am not quite clear on which wires to crimp. There is a Picture but its not clear with no text.
Anyone done this and think it worth while?
Can someone write out an idiots guide with pics if poss as I don`t want to take a chance and fry anything. Cant understand how one wire going to the switch can do anything by shorting out the two wires attached to the switch. Looking at my switch it has two wires going to and attached to the switch, one yellow and one black. Maybe its just a poor picture