Wizard
I did my first full brake bleed of the P38, following the RAVE instructions to the letter.
That's quite an epic process for the first timer.
I had pre warned SWMBO and booked a time. She sat in the drivers seat with a crossword puzzle while I ran around like a blue ass fly.
I had done Russel's brake modulator repair 2 months ago and as a result, it seems you do need to bleed the brakes through quite a bit to get all of the air out of the system. Otherwise the pump tends to run more frequently than it should.
My mechanic has done it several times, but this time I thought I would have a go. Its not difficult but it is time consuming and "finicky".
Anyway, I'm quite chuffed that I got through it without incident, and it has made a big improvement, so all good.
Now off for a beer ......
Cheers
Dave
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
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Wizard
Nice one Dave, well done you.
You've inspired me to have a go myself one day. It's always seemed like one of those daunting jobs best left to professionals. However, you seem to indicate that it is not too bad but does require patience and a helper.
My ABS pump seems to operate a lot too... I wonder if air in the lines might be a problem...
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Wizard
According to Russell, the guru on P38 brakes, a full brake bleed should be done every 12 months.
After I pulled my modulator apart for the rebuild, I can see why.
I would recommend becoming very familiar with the procedure before you start, it can get a bit stressful towards the end .... with open the valve, pump the brake, turn on the ignition for 4 seconds, turn it off again, turn it on, stand on one leg, ......
When I was buying the fluid, I happened to see a bleed tube with a one way valve on the end of it, which I bought for $15. In retrospect I think this is a must have for this job as it allows the fluid to bleed out in a very controlled fashion and you can keep tabs on any air bubbles cause they only tend to go in one direction.
This one....
Europat Vizibleed Bleed Aid
(Note: My missus is not very patient when it comes to these sorts of things. It helped that I printed out a separate set of instructions so she could follow along where we were up to !!! )
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
2004 Freelander TD4 SE
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
1994 Range Rover Vogue
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OldBushie
It's could well be the accumulator.Originally Posted by PaulP38a
How's the brakes first thing in the norning? If hard, then the accumulator is due (it's a consumeable item).
Scott
Master
This has got me thinking... mine seem to have gotten softer than usual. In the morning, the brake takes about 5 seconds for the pressure to build up enough.
How do i know if my ABS pump is overworking? I'm guessing you can hear it but i've never noticed before...
D
ForumSage
Well done!
There are some silicone brake fluids that aren't hygroscopic and never need to be changed. Unfortunately last time I looked they can't be used in abs equipped cars
2005 Defender 110
Wizard
Thanks Scott... don't recall the brakes being harder in the morning, but will check tomorrow.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Fossicker
Hi Dave, good to hear that all is well. Some that I have done, now over thirty require alot of bleeding. No pattern really, some take a couple of bleeds others can take half a dozen or so. The trick is to make sure ALL steps are followed to a T. Some take shortcuts which can just move the air around. I normally suggest to use the car for two weeks or so between bleeds, this tends to move the air around so it's easier to bleed out. Regards Russell.
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