Bull Bars and Rear Bars

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Originally Posted by benji

I've just had an email back from Michael Samootin (who i've heard of before...), he's the director of design and manafacture there, and yay; they do a dinky dye rear bar for the p38s:banana::arms::clap2::TakeABow: - plus extra visual adjectives!!!!

The attatched flyer says it all.
He needs a minimum of 5 to do a run, and if we can get in before the end of this month (haha, I know); he's got a 20% off rear bars sale till then.

The p38 in the flyer also has rock sliders too - I havn't asked him about these yet.

I'm in for sure!

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Does anyone know what these bars are like?

I'm just curious how strong they are.

For instance, I have an ARB rear bar on my old RRC & it's taken an absolute hammering with rocks over the years & it's still in great shape (apart from being a little thin of paint in areas). Then I see D3s & D4s with a big Kaymar rear bar fitted & they seem to move & take out the rear lights with the slightest bump :(.
I would like to get one of these P38 bars but if I'm spending more than 50% of what the car cost 6 years ago, then I'd want it to take what my RRC bar can take.

Isn't PaulP38a's rear bar one of these?

I had a long talk about this to Michael, as i'm in the same boat.I've consistantly used the backend of the 93 to slid off things, and this HSE is just too nice to risk damage. He described it as 'extremely strong', and made direct mention to it being stronger than the kaymar bar for the p38.

It's all steel, and is reinforced behind the eyelets, which he says are tested (and rated) to 8 tonne each - he said the chassis would bend before the bar would for sure.

The bar is attatched with a C channel that extends down the chassis rail, and uses 6 grade 8 bolts. He said it's most definately strong enough to make an integrated tow pack, but he can't be bothered going through the vicroad loops to do so.

Later on i'll be welding the towpack to it, so I don't have concerns about the downball load bending the bolt on crossmember.

I hope i'm not 'selling' his bar, but I think it's the real deal.
If your interested, the 20%off only applies until Sunday night.

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Originally Posted by Gippslander

Mr LR Jnr how does this one look if your handy i will give you measurements and you can make your own i did :D its under Front and Rear bars P38 section

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Hi Gippslander, that is a solid looking bit of kit there, nice P38a too :) what i meant from my prevcious comment was in keeping the rounds of the original bumper corners, as most bars you see have square corners that i just don't think suits. Your bar looks stong and practical, would love to see some pics when it's painted or whatever you're doing to it.

I don't have a P38a myself, i've got a D1 and mum's got a D2 (which i might have buggered the rear bar on before i got my car haha) so i wanted to make bars for these, was just talking about making bars for a few different models while i'm at uni as a source of income. And who knows could even develop into a multi million dollar business like ARB haha (i wish)

Cheers
Will

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Isn't PaulP38a's rear bar one of these?

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Yep, this is the same bar as on mine. Two of the photos in the 4x4de flyer are of my old P38 and the other three are Captain's.

Good bar. I've bashed mine plenty and never had a problem.

It appears that 4x4de is 4x4 Intelligence revisited. Same guy(s).

Cheers, Paul.

Are the dollars on that flyer for real?

Perhaps that black colored gold plating must be insanely tricky and expensive to do!

I'd rather import a nice slimline one with rear bash plate from Rock Rover. Or keep repainting and replacing old smashed up plastic bumbers with second hand ones. You could afford one a year for the next 15-20 years at those prices.

Funniest price was the $800+ for a jerry holder... greedy, fat, gougers.

How many middle men taking a cut out of your wallets boys???

My thoughts are the same; I think he knows that no one else makes them!
But what choice do I have. I've got an underfloor lpg tank, and I simply won't have a loose tire in the back; and i'm a few years off having the equipment and skills to build one.

I was going to order one with just the bare stubs at each corner and make the swing arms - that I can do.

We want to do Fraser again at the end of next year; but need a rear bar.

Just paid the deposit for the bar - yay! Fraser here we come.
Paul, the photo of your Rangie in that flyer - was it the one wearing rock sliders?

The silver car with the sliders was the Captain's car, sold recently though I believe.

There's some more pics in the original rear bar thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...tml#post813473

Pictures of rear bar it cost me 400 dollars including stubbies and grinding discs for the mate i will also include dimensional drawing hope you can use it the mount is made of 5mm x 75mm flat bar 180mm long i used two pieces inside each chassis rail with a piece of 50mm x 75mm tube section cut and fitted between the side plates i welded them in and they cover the bolts which hold the bar on. The rear bar was 1800 mm wide and pre bent 150mm at the top 160mm side and a lip of 50mm at the bottom. as the car is wider at the wheels than at the back i cut the end to suit when i had made the side sections the right size dimensions shown are for mine yours may be different the original length was 800mm on each side piece you will have to trial fit then cut to size. Make sure you have the back section low enough to allow the tail gate to open fully no other issues with it i managed to fit the original slide on side mounts after the bar was finished held them in place made some spacers and welded them up it now slides on and off as original using all original mounts. All plates were bent professionally in Morwell where i purchased the steel they cut the sides and folded with taper as you see it and recessed the corner to allow m e to weld straight to the back piece then they made two corner pieces i welded in after all was aligned ground off rough spots and all was good.:D Hope this helps you.
Regards Gippslander