check all the connections (wire) you might of just bumped one enough for it not to work at the right time.
or is it the kit with a air psi guage? if so you might of taped the wrong line? does the car lift itself up when the is pressure in the tank?
OK so I thought I would install one of those EAS bypass kits just in case mine failed somewhere at sometime.
Bloody brilliant I might add and works a treat but.....
History – My system was working fine before installation maybe a little slow to rise but hard to tell. Certainly I had checked it by pulling the relay under the LHS seat next to the EAS controller and NO deflating over a two day period.
Added the EAS bypass and tested by pulling the relay again. The car stays up and level for several days so as far as I am concerned there is NO leaks from the valve block side to the bags. Sprayed all connections with soapy water and no sign of leaks.
Now my problem is the EAS compressor doesn’t seem to want to start? The only thing I have touched is the relay and the airlines. Bloody coincidence.
I checked the faults using Storey Wilson’s software (none) and can manually activate the compressor using the same software. Fills the tank in 5- 10min to around 140 PSI so from that perspective I believe the compressor is working. I have checked the relevant fuses but not the relay but given I can manually turn it on using the software which I believe is akin to manually jumping the connections electrically the system should be fine?
I have checked the thermal cutout switch for continuity and that seems fine!
What next?
I guess it could be the drive box or the EAS controller or the pressure switch?
My thought is the pressure switch might have failed and therefore not kicking the compressor back in when it gets below 110 PSI like it should. With a full take of air the suspension will fill to HIGH mode but drain down to around 50 PSI in the process and the compressor doesn’t kick in during that process.
When I turn the key to position 2 I can hear the compressor kick in for less than a second but then nothing . As said above can then manually start it with the software and away she goes fine and dandy.
I also read somewhere about the brushes causing a similar issue in the compressor but that doesn’t really make sense to me if the compressor runs fine using the software.
Desperate for ideas of what could be wrong and maybe instructions to test the pressure switch.
Only good thing is the EAS bypass works a treat but I would like my conventional EAS back.
check all the connections (wire) you might of just bumped one enough for it not to work at the right time.
or is it the kit with a air psi guage? if so you might of taped the wrong line? does the car lift itself up when the is pressure in the tank?
Yes has the air pressure gauge - tapped line 6 for that from memory.
If tank is full car will lift but pressure will drop fast and compressor will not start again.
Not one of those dodgey ebay kits eh?.........
Silly Question, but have you removed the seat side to make sure the relay is in all the way?
Andy
Nah the kit is a high quality one from a reputable dealer and works great . Yep the relay has been in and out several times (when out faults the EAS when back in no fault) so i presume it is fine.
Found a guide for testing the pressure switch and thermal switch (for others) on Storey Wilson web site so a job for today - Land Rover Reset Tools - Videos
No faults showing on Storey Wilsons software.
I may pay you a visit sometime in July when in Sydney to plug things into working units if that is OK but hopefully i will have found the problem by then.
Cheers,
Remy
Just trying to glean a bit of info regards that software... I have been close to purchasing an EAS kicker and also a P38 fault box from ebay in the past and am now curious to understand something.
Does anyone know, can I simply grab Mr Wilsons software and put it on my trusty old laptop, then buy a few plugs and not have to bother with all these other boxes?!?!? (assuming I am happy to lug said trusty laptop and cables around with car)
Sorry not helping with the original query, but I am trying to learn as much as possible as quickly as I can to catch up with all youz guruz!
Lots of love Dave & "the pretty pig"
YES - You need a computer with a serial port and you need to make the cable up but instructions are all there on his site. The software allows you do a lot more than the kicker i.e. calibrate/adjust your eas settings etc (although i note there are updates for the kicker that allow this) but you are more likely to keep the kicker in the car and have it there when needed. I can also recommend the EAS bypass kit sold by "Andrew e" works a treat and easy to install and just requires you to pull the timer relay if things go bad.
UPDATE
Even though the thermal cutoff on the compressor tested OK and after making sure the pressure switch was good i decided to open the compressor and take a look.
Found the brushbox bush at the end of the compressor motor had come loose.
So once the motor started to shake this little bush would slide over and short the thermal switch. interestingly no fault code was logged for this fault but testing the circuit certainly explained why the compressor wouldn't start. This site describe how you can fix it. after checking my seal/piston and bore opted just to get another compressor. Photos taken from site showing a loose bush and then the unit repaired. Worth a quick inspection for those concerned about maintaining a fully functioning system.
Range Rover Air Suspension tips from Tucson's Falconworks Land Rover
So now waiting on the compressor. Given that the engine bay is filthy decide to give it a gentle wash today and the car started fine afterwards got me to work. Came back tonight no spark and dead.
Will i learn and leave the thing alone - probably not.
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