drop arms for lifted P38A

Well, I probably made the handling worse today.

Removed the bumpstops, deflated the EAS and measured the heights from bump stop plate to top of diff... 60mm at the front and 0mm at the rear.

Cut the blue HRA bumpstops to 90mm for the front and reused the yellow orignal bump stops for the rear.

Decided to swap over the height sensors while I was at it... left to right that is, which meant I had to recalibrate the EAS. Oh joy! So I thought I might as well give the car a bit of extra height to see how it goes... :)

• Highway/Low height is same as before... 485/495mm (front/rear) measured from top of wheel cap to bottom of guard, and 60/55mm bump stop to diff - approx 30mm more at the front stops;
• Standard height is now 40mm taller than before... 525/545mm and 100/120 bump stop to diff;
• Wading/High height is now 35mm taller than before... 565/600mm and 140/165 bump stop to diff;
• Access height is now 15mm off the diffs.

Hopefully with the shorter bump stops, Low and Standard heights will now be a smoother ride.

I've taken a bunch of pics to document my changes and will post them to a web page sometime soon if they can be of use to any of you folks.

In the meantime, here is a pic of the Rangie on Standard height next to my wife's Freelander.
http://www.cordwell.net/wp-content/u.../090809-48.JPG

Cheers, Paul.

FWIW... the LR EAS Systems Information document (SID) (LR1998) specifies

"...When calibration is complete, there should be 100 ±4mm (4.0 ± .2 in.) between the front bump stop stud and the front axle pad, while the rear, measured similarly, should be 105 ±4mm (4.2± .2 in.) standard ride height."

I can email you a copy if you want.

The problem is, that with standard tyres at correct psi (equivalent diameter to Pirelli Scorpion with 11mm tread), the 100mm/105mm displacement above gives a wheelarch to ground distance of around 815mm! This is much higher than the widely publicised 790mm ground-to-wheelarch centre measurement so often quoted elsewhere... including in LR's own abovementioned SID!!!

Perhaps there is a LR /RR professional expert somewhere who can explain the differences :eek:

the rear might scrub a bit more now with 33s on full articulation. The angle grinder is ready to cut up that lovely new stright door :)


Andy

Thanks for that Hoges. The SID was an interesting read and more informative than the Workshop Manual. Who do you have to know/sleep with/bribe to get more of those?

Having driven the car for a short distance today on Highway and Standard modes, it does seem to be a bit smoother. I'll find some bumpy roads and try it again - shouldn't be too difficult to find some rough roads in rural NSW :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrew e

the rear might scrub a bit more now with 33s on full articulation. The angle grinder is ready to cut up that lovely new stright door :)

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sounds good to me. Where do we get some rubber mouldings for the chopped guards though?

how about some defender flairs? you dont want to know what some rangie spares flairs (like sams disco) are worth. and they dont go straight on either.

Andy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrew e

how about some defender flairs? you dont want to know what some rangie spares flairs (like sams disco) are worth. and they dont go straight on either.

Andy

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Sure, Defender flares aren't too huge either if it is the type I'm thinking of, so they won't make the Rangie look too obnoxious :eek:

Reading an interesting article on rangerovers.net about a bloke who seems to have sorted the caster angle issue by dropping the rear mounts.

Lifting the Air Suspension

I think this is what I want... instead of bending/cutting the arms, just drop the rear mount by 2"... makes sense.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...09/08/1157.jpg

Anyone got one a couple of these mounts lying around and is handy with a welder :p

So by welding the mounts a little bit more forward does that put anything else out?

thanks mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M.Allison

So by welding the mounts a little bit more forward does that put anything else out?

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Other than extending the height sensor arms, probably not much else should need attention - I hope.

I'm thinking of lowering the radius arm rear mounts rather than moving them forward. Apparently they can be moved forward to help with improving space within the wheel arches for bigger tyres, but I'd then be worried about stuff like steering shaft, angle of airsprings, shocks and bumps, and extending the front propshaft.... seems like too much effort at this stage.

Thinking about this some more.... I wonder if it might be simpler to make up a 2-piece bracket that is secured in to the existing rear mounting point with another hole 2" lower that the front radius arms mount in? To make it even more useful, you could replace the existing crossmember with a bigger/lower crossmember that gives better tailpipe protection and is also secured in to the existing radius arm rear points, and has new radius arm rear mounting points attached.

Hmm, might just work...:cool:

Despite what some people might think, I'm not trying to turn my Rangie in to some kind of off-road competition truck. It has to serve as my daily driver too. Just want to make a few useful mods to take advantage of the awesome capabilities of these vehicles, and have some fun along the way :)

Cheers, Paul.

i see this alot, but i dont understand why people do it. If you have a flat chassis rail, you slide over things easy. Adding a drop box, like the one in the picture, you will get hung up more than with stock suspension.

My 2c.

Andy