Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 39

Thread: Tracing the coolant leak

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    narellan, sydney
    Posts
    1,131
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Paul,

    "4.6, 4.6, 4.6!!!" I'm sure if you asked nicely Andy might even have one there for you.


    Chris
    i only have 3 good ones left . The other one has a suspect slipped liner.

    Paul, can you bend/brake the corner of the heat shield off with a pait of vice grips (bend it back and forth many times) or is access a problem?

    Or is it possible to remove the head with the exhaust manifold in place? undo the head bolts, and the bolts on the cat/lower exhaust manifold, and lift it all out?

    Andy

  2. #12
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    The steering intermediate shaft is in the way. I might have to remove the shaft yet (like Rave says) but I don't want to touch the steering if I don't really need to..

    Remove the shaft. I do, every time.

    However, do this before finally levering the shaft off.

    Ensure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centred.

    Remove the ignition key, lock the steering wheel, and keep the key well away. You do not want that wheel being turned as it may damage the spiral cassette (exxy!).

    You might find accessing the heat shield bolts easier if you remove the wheel well liners (easy to do).
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    i only have 3 good ones left . The other one has a suspect slipped liner.
    My preference is to stick with the 4.0 at the moment. You know how I like to keep my cars as original as possible

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Paul, can you bend/brake the corner of the heat shield off with a pait of vice grips (bend it back and forth many times) or is access a problem?
    Access is a bit better now that I've raised the car off it's bump stops but not good enough to wiggle the vice grips around. I'll see if I can find some interesting gadgets at the tool shop tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Or is it possible to remove the head with the exhaust manifold in place? undo the head bolts, and the bolts on the cat/lower exhaust manifold, and lift it all out?
    Hmm, maybe. I'll go have a poke around the engine bay to see what is still in the way. Rave says I should remove the steering intermediate shaft and loosen up the bolt at the top of the shock tower, but have managed to avoid both so far.
    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Remove the shaft. I do, every time.

    However, do this before finally levering the shaft off.

    Ensure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centred.

    Remove the ignition key, lock the steering wheel, and keep the key well away. You do not want that wheel being turned as it may damage the spiral cassette (exxy!).

    You might find accessing the heat shield bolts easier if you remove the wheel well liners (easy to do).
    Good advice Ron - Thanks, I'll do that if I take the shaft off.

    For a fleeting moment last night while I had my hands in unnatural positions around the heat shield I though about removing the wheel well liner. That bolt would probably have been off yesterday if I had listened to myself at the time. Now that you've said it, it will be the next thing I do.
    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Removed the RH wheel arch liner (thanks Ron) and got a much better view of the remnants of the offending bolt


    Even the 8mm Metrinch socket (thanks eb220) wouldn't budge this after I had butchered it so badly.

    Resorted to a long set of tin snips and a 5mm HS drill bit and here is the result.


    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  6. #16
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    They are a pig of a thing to remove. I soak them in Penetrene for days before trying to remove them.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    far north QLD
    Posts
    79
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    Removed the RH wheel arch liner (thanks Ron) and got a much better view of the remnants of the offending bolt


    Even the 8mm Metrinch socket (thanks eb220) wouldn't budge this after I had butchered it so badly.

    Resorted to a long set of tin snips and a 5mm HS drill bit and here is the result.


    Cheers, Paul.
    The only way I have got these loose when they are rusted is soak in WD get a small pair of vice grips on the outer side and the socket on the bolt. Usually they give in.If not gas axe out and a spot of mig to re-assemble.
    Regards Russell.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    carrum downs vic
    Posts
    7
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    Having fun pulling the top of the engine apart today/tonight, and having a few challenges along the way...

    Aim of this project is to find and repair a suspect coolant leak at the back of engine. I've tried to pinpoint the leak using one of those little mirrors on a stick, and even tried a home-made endoscope made from a webcam on a long stick

    So far have only managed to remove the upper manifold/plenum chamber and throttle body, rocker covers, drain the cooling system, and remove the drive belt tensioner so I could try to remove the alternator.

    Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.

    Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.


    The staining is where I've sprayed a silicon spray to attempt to loosen it up.
    Any suggestions please?
    use a largise screwdriver or prybar betwwen the alt and the alloy bracket, it will come up, even try tapping it downwards with a soft mallet first, it will move even tho you will think you are going to break something

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    RH heat shield is finally off, as is the steering intermediate shaft, RH exhaust manifold, rocker shaft and pushrods.

    Think I've located the main coolant leak - see pic below

    Explains the nasty staining on the starter motor too.

    Here's the view from below, taken before I started to pull the top of the engine apart.


    I suspect that I've got a leak behind the firewall also, probably the heater o-rings as I've noticed a few drops of coolant in the drivers footwell, but this pic below, underneath driver's door body panel, is a real worry.



    Decided that I had enough for tonight when I broke the 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter trying to undo the first cylinder head bolt.

    Off to the tool shop again tomorrow for a stronger set of socket adapters, and/or a 16mm on 1/2" socket to avoid the need for an adapter on the head bolts.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    narellan, sydney
    Posts
    1,131
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The best ones for head bolts are the black 6 sided sockets. I cant remember what size (too much stanley red...)

    Andy

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!