Tracing the coolant leak

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Originally Posted by PaulP38a

The pistons tops look pretty ordinary though. Is this flakey black stuff normal,

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By any chance are you starting this car up / warming it till it gets to temp / driving a short distance / never reving past 2000 ??

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Originally Posted by PaulP38a

I've got one of those re-honing attachments to clean up the cylinders. Should I?

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NO ... put that tool back in the cupboard

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Originally Posted by PaulP38a

Suppose I'd better get around to ordering the new gaskets, hoses, clamps, bolts etc on Monday...

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Take the heads to a recon joint and have them test the face for straightness .... They will most probably need facing, as they are Alloy heads

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Originally Posted by PaulP38a

... plus 2 days in Perth again. Love Perth...

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Don't get toooo excited ... It's rain rain rain


Mike
:)

you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft even with the fan on, just use a short 2" ext on a 15/16 socket with a ratchet, it should fit in behind the fan, as said earlier, no heads on so it will move easilly. the plastic filling on the breather tube is normal, just use whatever you used on the insides of the rocker covers to clean them up on it. i like 101 degreaser myself if you can find it, usually only sold in the trade to detailers etc

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

By any chance are you starting this car up / warming it till it gets to temp / driving a short distance / never reving past 2000 ??

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kinda... a lot of short trips less than 10km during the week. Don't usually let it stand for long, usually just drive off and let it warm up on the road.

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

NO ... put that tool back in the cupboard

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good, it scared me a little :o

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Take the heads to a recon joint and have them test the face for straightness .... They will most probably need facing, as they are Alloy heads

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Andrew E is sending me down a set of heads that he's had reco'd and I'm giving him my old ones plus some cash... sounds fair to me :D

Mostly inspected and cleaned stuff today. Tappets seem to have flat bottoms and the camshaft lobes are curvy.

Lots of elbow grease, dirty rags, scouring pads, degreaser, WD-40 and water spray to clean up the front of the engine.

Scouring pad (used those green plastic ones, lightly and in circular motion), razor blade (very gently), vacuum and rags to clean the piston heads.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.p...serialNumber=1
Not spotless, but a lot better than when I started.

Current state of the garage with bits everywhere. Poor little Freelander has to sleep outside... note the 33" muddies blocking the door :p
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.p...serialNumber=1

And the Rangie with a blanket over the exposed engine... not to keep it warm :) but because a clothes dryer is nearby and I don't like the idea of all the fluff getting blown in to the exposed bits.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.p...serialNumber=1

Cheers, Paul.

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Originally Posted by WBHSE

you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft even with the fan on, just use a short 2" ext on a 15/16 socket with a ratchet, it should fit in behind the fan, as said earlier, no heads on so it will move easilly. the plastic filling on the breather tube is normal, just use whatever you used on the insides of the rocker covers to clean them up on it. i like 101 degreaser myself if you can find it, usually only sold in the trade to detailers etc

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Yeah thanks WBHSE - the long, offset 15/16 spanner did the trick no problems at all.

I've been using pump pack spray degreaser (forgot the brand - white pump pack, black/yellow/red label) and CRC Gasket Stripper for the difficult stuff.

Had another go at removing the fan but I'm obviously doing something wrong despite the attempts of people here trying to explain it to me...

As shown in the pic below, I was able to successfully remove the pulley off the water pump... doh! :eek: not quite what I was after...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Ok, so I've got the 12" shifter on the fan shaft and it looks like I should be rotating it towards me (on LHS of engine). What/where do I secure another spanner/socket/tool to give me leverage? Or is it a matter of pushing the shifter (away) and pulling the fan (towards)?

Cheers, Paul.

i usually remove fan and cowling before i do anything else, so the belt is still on which helps, you can try using some sort of lever or large screwdriver between the pully and the pump to try to stop the pully from spinning, and then belt the shifter with a small sledge hammer or mallet, only recommend these two as they have larger than normal hammer area to hit the shifter with, you may need some one to hold the lever/screwdriver in posistion while you give the shifter a belt

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Originally Posted by PaulP38a

Had another go at removing the fan but I'm obviously doing something wrong despite the attempts of people here trying to explain it to me...


http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.p...serialNumber=1

Ok, so I've got the 12" shifter on the fan shaft and it looks like I should be rotating it towards me (on LHS of engine). What/where do I secure another spanner/socket/tool to give me leverage? Or is it a matter of pushing the shifter (away) and pulling the fan (towards)?

Cheers, Paul.

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Grab the fan belt ...rap it fully (Loop it) around the water pump pulley, then around the crank pully ... Get your son to pull / stretch the rest of the pulley as hard as he can / so its taunt

With your shifter, You turn the nut to loosen, in the direction that the fan normally turns when the motor runs .... So with the direction of the fan sorted .... Your son holding the belt so the pulley is locked up .... You pull on the shifter, with one hand, and then with the other hand ... HIT the side of the shifter to jar the nut loose (in the direction that the fan normally turns when the motor runs ) .... will take a couple of hits ... but will happen

Another Father & son bonding time :D


By the way ... The direction according to your photo, is to pull towards the drivers side to loosen .... It looks to be opposite to the RRC rotation /// Your fan appears to turn anticlockwise


Mike

To remove the fan, put some of the bolts back in the water pump pulley, then hold one of them with the ring end of a 10mm combination spanner (ring at one end open at the other). Wedge the spanner against the center hub, where it will not interfere with the jaws of your 12" tool.

You may need to extend the 10mm spanner to get more leverage. You do this by getting another similar sized combination spanner (say 11mm) and put one of the open end jaws on the 10mm spanner, through the ring end of the 11mm, essentially extending it to twice the origional length.

I will try and take a photo tomorrow of me removing one.


Andy

Paul,

A couple of bits of 3ft and 4ft long bits of steel or alluminium pipe with a decent wall thickness (3mm+) will help.

Torque is your friend!!!!

Chris

I've been watching this post with interest, Paul. I've done the same job three times on RRCs, and it is quite similar, though with some significant differences as well, mainly to do with removing the ancillary bits like the alternator etc.

A VRS kit (valve regrind set, IIRC) gives you all the gaskets, seals, clips etc that you need for a complete top end overhaul. This includes new head gaskets, valley cover gasket, exhaust flange gaskets, etc.

Just one tip - when you replace the exhaust manifolds, put the back bolt in first. Then gravity works for you and not against you.

Willem