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Thread: Tracing the coolant leak

  1. #1
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    Tracing the coolant leak

    Having fun pulling the top of the engine apart today/tonight, and having a few challenges along the way...

    Aim of this project is to find and repair a suspect coolant leak at the back of engine. I've tried to pinpoint the leak using one of those little mirrors on a stick, and even tried a home-made endoscope made from a webcam on a long stick

    So far have only managed to remove the upper manifold/plenum chamber and throttle body, rocker covers, drain the cooling system, and remove the drive belt tensioner so I could try to remove the alternator.

    Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.

    Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.


    The staining is where I've sprayed a silicon spray to attempt to loosen it up.
    Any suggestions please?
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.
    I just use a big shifter and a hammer.

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.

    Have you tried levering the alternator up with a screw driver. They come out easily enough.

    The collar is in the bracket and has probably been pressed back into the alternator mouning lug.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    I just use a big shifter and a hammer.

    Have you tried levering the alternator up with a screw driver. They come out easily enough.

    The collar is in the bracket and has probably been pressed back into the alternator mouning lug.
    Thanks Ron... lever with a big screwdriver didn't work. Based on what you've said, I'll try to push the collar outwards by levering it from behind with a sharp screwdriver.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  4. #4
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Use a electric heat gun and Heat the Ali part of the bracket .... this will expand it and loosen the grip on the collar ... Grab the collar with multi grip's and give it a sharp hit

    Fan ...
    12 inch crescent ... Add weight (Pull) & Hit the side of crescent in the direction that the fan turns

    Mike

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    hit the alternator on a solid part with a lump of wood to loosen it. it comes straight out. Paul is that alternator 130 or 150? i know HSEs got the 150 and D2s got the 130, but i dont know what the 4.0 p38s got.

    your coolant leak is coming from your crank. it wont go away until you fit a 4.6

    Andy

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Use a electric heat gun and Heat the Ali part of the bracket .... this will expand it and loosen the grip on the collar ... Grab the collar with multi grip's and give it a sharp hit

    Fan ...
    12 inch crescent ... Add weight (Pull) & Hit the side of crescent in the direction that the fan turns
    Thanks Mike, got the alternator off quite easily once I applied a bit of forward pressure to the collars via multi-grips.

    Have managed to avoid pulling off the fan so far, but have noted your tip if I need to.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    Paul is that alternator 130 or 150? i know HSEs got the 150 and D2s got the 130, but i dont know what the 4.0 p38s got.
    150

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    your coolant leak is coming from your crank. it wont go away until you fit a 4.6
    Noted and stored for future reference
    Actually, it seems that the coolant leak is coming from two places so far:
    - at the rear valley gasket, along with a bit of oil
    - at the R/H rear head gasket

    I'm keeping a photo record of what I'm doing at Engine Refresh

    Current problem is getting the last 2 (of 8) 8mm bolts off the R/H exhaust manifold heat shield. The one at the bottom is rusted/rounded so badly I spent 2 fruitless hours tonight on it and it still won't budge. It sits just above the flange near the R/H cat and I can't even get a drill or blade to it to butcher it off. It's the one opposite the one shown in the pic below (near the WD-40 stain)

    Any suggestions... please?

    The other painful 8mm bolt is at the R/H front and under the heat shield. The steering intermediate shaft is in the way. I might have to remove the shaft yet (like Rave says) but I don't want to touch the steering if I don't really need to.

    Looks like I won't be driving up to your place next weekend Andy...

    So, who knows of a good place to source (all?) engine gaskets, coolant hoses and replacement hose clamps that can get it delivered to Canberra by next weekend?

    cheers, Paul.
    Last edited by PaulP38a; 16th August 2009 at 11:05 PM. Reason: added pic
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  7. #7
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    Paul,

    "4.6, 4.6, 4.6!!!" I'm sure if you asked nicely Andy might even have one there for you.

    How rounded is the nut? Are the edges knocked off, or is it really round? I might know of a fix for you. Give me a call.

    As for your gaskets etc, give Gary Gjerde a call on 47542642, or 0412663751, he might be able to help. When I have bought items from Gary, I have received them in 2 days, 3 tops.

    Chris

  8. #8
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post

    Current problem is getting the last 2 (of 8) 8mm bolts off the R/H exhaust manifold heat shield.
    I don't know exactly where your heat shield is ... But a thought ...

    Would it be easier to just undo all the bolts on the exhaust manifold, and remove it as a whole section off the motor ??

    Would leave more room to work in the engine bay

    If it is possible ...be aware that you will most probably break the studs that connect the "exhaust pipe to the manifold" ... These are very easy, to drill and tap in new ones when the manifold is out and on your work bench




    Mike

  9. #9
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    for the heat shield you just need a set of tin snips

    and you can't get the exhaust manifold of with out taking off the heat shield.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the suggestions blokes.

    In praise of EAS and manual bypass kits
    Being the clever fellow that I am I had lowered the car to it's bump stops to make it easier to work in the engine bay (I'm short too). Trying to get a bit more room to move around under the car to fiddle around with this pesky heat shiled bolt might have been a problem had I not installed an EAS manual bypass kit... I was able to connect up an air compressor and pump the car up about 15cm to make under car access a lot easier.

    Just another reason why I love my EAS

    Back to the bolt saga...

    Tried tin snips but can't get enough purchase with the two small snips that I've got... perhaps with bigger, longer ones it would work.

    Had a go with a hack saw blade... again, not a lot of room to move and very little progress.

    Also had a go with a long thin drill bit to try to weaken the shield enough to break it.

    On the bolt itself, 8mm (6 and/or 12 edge) socket just spins, 5/16" socket tries to grip but then slips, 7mm won't fit.

    Will head off to the tool shop tomorrow for a longer set of snips, and one of those funky Metrinch gadgets as suggested by eb220.

    The 2nd last bolt, under the heat shield and toward the front, was easier than expected

    Haven't even started on the LH exhaust manifold yet. Figured I would do the more difficult one first and then the LH one should be easy... please

    Oh well, this is a good learning experience and keeps me out of the missus' way inside the house

    Spoke with 3 suppliers for replacement gaskets, hoses and bolts. Will decide which one I go with when the 3rd supplier quote comes in, hopefully tomorrow.

    Appears there is a "VRS kit" which will give me all the gaskets for the top of the engine, but no kit of hoses which I will have to spec individually.

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

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