tried getting someone to lean on that corner while you pull on the cable?
Anyone got any tips how to "un-stuck" the RH bonnet lock please? (the one near the battery).
The bonnet is closed, LH locks seems ok, just can't get the RH to release.
UPDATE at 1830hrs: Disconnected the cables in the RH footwell. the bottom one operates the LH lock ok and the top one tries to operate the RH lock but no good. at least it seems that the cable is not broken.
Thanks, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
tried getting someone to lean on that corner while you pull on the cable?
yeah, tried that but still won't give. think I might be stretching the cable now that I'm tugging on the RH cable. thanks for the suggestion though.
does anyone know the path the cables take? I'm guessing they go up the engine bay side of the RH wheel arch and then bend in front of the battery. Just wondering if I've fouled something when I put the battery back in this arvo.
BTW: the engine sounds nice after it's "refresh"... just haven't finished topping up the cooling system so can't really drive it anywhere yet... until I get the bonnet open and close the cap.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
got it open by unhooking the upper cable sheath from the bracket in the RH footwell and giving the whole cable/sheath a good tug. Now to find out why it failed in the first place.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
did you remove the bonnet or any part to work on the car?
IIRC the bleeder line from the radiator to the expansion tank was cable tied to the bonnet cable on some cars, was this disturbed?
Also one of the bonnet pins may be bent, causing it to jam. this happens sometimes.
The cables are also adjustable with a small bolt, once you remove the catch under the bonnet, you will see how to do it.
They may also run under the inner guard, past the plastic trim you removed, it could be caught on this also?
Andy
bonnet was tilted vertically but not removed. Inner wheel arches removed, and battery removed. The cables do run close to the battery, and stay within the engine bay.
I did replace the bleeder line, but don't recall it being cable tied to the bonnet lock cables. Makes sense that the cables should be tied somewhere to prevent excessive movement of the sheath.
Haven't found the bolt yet, but did find this blue plastic bit broken on the RH lock end. Looks like it should be wedged in the end of the lock bracket.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
aahh the earlier ones you can adjust, the later ones are fixed. sorry about that.
Andy
Andy should be able to supply you with a replacement cable, Paul.
Willem
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
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