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The only issue with rust is the metal strip that the glass panel seal sits on. Water seeps in at the rubber joint area & corrodes the strip. If the seal is lifting around the join area, chances are that the strip is rusty.Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp38a
The drain tubes block up with crud over the years too but that's a relatively simple fix.
True, but if the right car is there at the right price, then that's the car to get. I'd prefer an HSE too, but I couldn't argue with a 99 4.0 with 144 000kms on it at the price I paid. It was just the right car at the right time at the right price. I had done my research and knew what I was looking for, so I bought it. I reckon that's the key thing. Know what you want and then when the right car comes up don't get too fussed about the details - colour, luxury level etc. After all the pov pack is still pretty fancy compared to most cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by whyatts
Willem
There is a 1998 HSE P38 on ebay in NSW for sale, an autobiography at that.
Car looks in great nick, done a few km (290 000) tidy inside and out and then I scrolled down to the bottom and this is what I saw...
has been well looked after.... it is overheats easy ,,, not sure if it is just a head gasket.... apart from that it is good condition........
I have dibbs on the passengers fog light and I woun't mind the wrap around bull bar either!
Andrew E please let me know when these parts are avaialble?
haha! ;)
Agree with avoiding 1995's (i.e. the GEM/LUCAS early ones)... I have one too, and have experienced numerous gremlins/glitches... it seems to me that the likelihood of all elec's being in good cond on an early one is pretty slim. I'm no expert, but if it was me, I would go for a late model bosch fitted "toorak tractor" from a cashed up suburb with full service history and low km's. I guess its the best of breed everyone would love to have! suggest patience would be the biggest factor. Good ones are out there if you take your time... and spend $30K dont bother going cheap up front!
I bougt my late 99 Thor 4.6 cheaply because the sunroof had leaked, the headlining was down and all the console electrics fried. The Sunroof panel come out in minutes, remove the seal, clean off rust, add rust inhibitor refit seal with suitable silicone. Easy fix. The previous owner had crapped himself with the quotes to fix the leak, headlining and electrics so was desperate to ofload the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp38a
What was involved to fix your 'fried console electrics' Wayneneg?
Water had got into the console switch panel, The PCB was green with corrosion. Just bought one from Ebay-UK. I was pretty lucky as I got a brand new walnut one for 100 pounds. It had a small piece of the bottom locating lug chipped off which make no difference at all once fitted. The grey plastic ones come up all the time for around 50 pounds second hand. 15 minute swap and all windows, sunroof and door mirrors working ( thank God), The headlining I had done professionally as it was only A$450 drive in drive out. As the colour was very light cream I thought better let them mess it up. Turned out superb and well worth the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumbles
Yep, I'd go for an HSE if you can find a decent one too.Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp38a
After, all you do get, not only the sunroof but also:
Leather memory seats
headlight washer wipers
fog/driving lights
vanity mirror with lights
cruise and stereo controls on steering wheel
a bit more fake wood on the dashboard
CD stacker and subwoofer in the boot
As debated here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...se-vs-hse.html
But do make sure all the bits work: when you're looking at a car of this vintage, it's more important to get a good one.
I went for a '99 4.6 HSE last month after a lot of shopping, haven't regretted it, even though I had to pay over the odds to find one with all the specs in the colour I wanted, below 120k on the clock. The one I found had spent most of it's life as a shopping car in Artarmon, so you can find 'em. Only problem is the leaky sunroof (I'm half way through fixing) and a really rather stuffed CD stacker, which I finally managed to cure this weekend, by taking it to bits (I'll post a cure on this with pics if anyone's interested).
In terms of the 4.6, I manage 12l/100kms on the motorways, and 25l/kms around town: slightly painful, but useable.
I accept your view on low K`s however 200000k done on the freeway is probably less demanding than 100000k doing shopping trips.Quote:
Originally Posted by lorkers
I drive mine daily in Perth and average 16.6 ltrs per 100k in traffic. On a lon run get 13ltrs per 100k. If I were getting only 25ltrs per 100k I would at least clean the Maf sensor or change it, seems a bit high. Is yours a Bosch Thor if so the HT leads are prone to deteriorate quickly and might be worth looking at?