Huh? I thought your was "Oxford Blue" like mine? Obviously I'm losing it :o
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That'd be great - I've just re-built my EAS pump with parts from Rover-Renovations - easy to do and good instructions online. It looks really good, but will it work???? If you ever have any questions on the EAS system, I maybe able to help....
Now trying to clear the EAS fault and am using Storey Wilson's software on the laptop - couldn't get the bugger to read the fault codes, looking at Storey's website I realise I can't use a stock OBDII cable, so I'm having a crack at making one to Storey's specs: I can't have a re-con EAS pump and lits of new fancy pipe work for the car to remain on its bump stops:D
I've also been talking to my Uncle who knows the Rover engines back to front, he's built and heavily modified a Rover 4 litre block in his (my old) MGB. He has suggested that it's the liners that are at fault and that I should use a product called Irontite as my first step to resolve the issue. I've looked at a lot of websites and forums and think that for $100 it's worth trying - if worst comes to worst, I'm up for a rebuild anyway.
So I've taken the plunge and if anyone is interested, I'll tell you all what I think.....
In response to colour, it's amazing how many green ones that are out there. I have to admit that when I bought mine, I originally thought it was blue!
Reagrding liners, I remember seeing somewhere that theres a UK company that makes "non slip" liners. The put a small lip on top of them that stops them slipping.
I made up my own lead for the EAS unlock software and it works a treat!
If you go to Dick Smiths I found them to be much cheaper than Jaycar for those parts, but Dick Smiths did not have the OBD2 connector plug.
There is a great video on making up the lead, if you follow that, you should not have any problems: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...d=54&Itemid=58
Here are the bits you need:
9 pin sub D connector
9-Pin Sub D Connector (P2685) | Dick Smith Online Store
USB to serial adaptor, they sell for around $80 in Australia for some reason, but if you can wait for delivery you can pick one up really cheaply on ebay:
USB TO RS232 SERIAL DB9 9 PIN ADAPTER CABLE PDA GPS - eBay Other Adaptors, Adaptors, Components, Computers. (end time 28-Jan-10 13:51:19 AEDST)
OBD2 plug on ebay as well, you can also get them at Jaycar but pretty pricey
OBD OBD2 OBDII EOBD 16 Pin Male Connector DLC Plug Diag : eBay Motors (item 260453546394 end time Jan-31-10 06:38:00 PST)
9 core computer cable is pretty cheap at any electronics store.
I have a spare clam shell cover you can have for the 9 pin sub D connector, I got 2 from ebay, only needed one, so it's yours if you want it, it's just going to waste here!
If you do want to check yours sooner you are welcome to borrow my lead to try out your EAS software.
Hope this helps, Cheers, Pete.
Pete,
I just may take you up on the lead.
For some reason I cannot get mine to register. I've split an exitsing OBDII lead and soldered it to the EAS Unlock specs, I've also tested it with a multimeter to make sure there is a connection and then connected it to an ancient Dell Laptop with 9 pin plug - the Laptop then decided to loose the monitor and so had to be taken apart and re-jigged and then finally it was all ready - do you think I could get a sugnal from the EAS and the software to work???
Next step, drive the car to under the window of my home office and run the diagnostic lead (thank God it's a long one) through the window to an equally ancient Desk Top (latent server) which of course will not run the programme as it needs a copy of .NET installed....that didn't take me too long to work that out!
I feel this is more Apollo 13 than Range Rover and while I sit here cursing computers, I am thnkful that Microsoft didn't build the Range Rover - then we would be in real trouble....
Jonathan
Where abouts in Melbourne are you poloenpom? I'm over by Chelsea if its close too you, I have cable and lappy if its needed.
Pete,
I'd love to borrow your lead - I can't work out what is going on with mine, perhaps it's too long and there's too much resistance...that said, it checked out on the multimeter.
No worries, I'm suprised my cable works, its a real botch job but its done the trick on several occasions :)