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My 26" Jamis hard tail has given me 12 good years of heavy service, now fitted with Shimano hydraulic calipers and a 203mm front disc. Recently I fitted a Thudbuster seat post which makes it even better as an all round bush basher. Set up similarly to this example from the 'net:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/216.jpg
You've all provided great insights and suggestions, thanks!
Some inspiration. If you have a problem with heights it's probably not ideal to watch.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/xQ_IQS3VKjA
Regards
Andrew
Watched a few of Dannys videos... Got some talent for sure...Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew D
We quite regularly go to Melrose so dropped in to OverTheEdge again today...
Just started paying one of these off...
Knolly Warden 650b
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I'm not sure what the go is these days, but we used to call them XC (Cross-country) which is probably XC or trail etc these days. I've always used air shocks for suspension, just get a shock pump and pump up to suit. Look for a bike with triple or double rings on the crank rather than any single ring setup, you will need the spread of gears to climb, descend and do the technical stuff despite cassettes the size of a dinner plate on the rear. I would avoid a Downhill or freeride bike, they're really not what you're looking for if you're looking to build fitness etc on it. Just be aware that riding down hill and riding "downhill" are two exceptionally different things to a MTB rider!!! I think you'll also prefer the duallie over the hardtail, they're heavier but a nicer ride with less fatigue if you're riding cross country and you spend less time out of the saddle avoiding getting your ass smashed. For brakes, test them as there are brakes and there are brakes. You should be able to modulate easily, brake with one finger, stand it on the front wheel and lock the rear all without the lever feeling spongie or pulling down to the handle bar. For materials, carbon is the cream of the crop then Ally, Cromo and then steel. I doubt you'll see titanium. Gears, my preference is Shimano, some like SRAM. They should all be good these days and will do the trick. Unless you're racing, choose based on numbers of gears rather than looking for top of the line as the difference is generally a few grams of weight with the exception of chains where it is life related.
Get the latest MTB to haves. Electronic shifters, electric lock outs on the shocks (so you can have soft or hard tail), wireless computer, GPS etc. So you feel at home diagnosing electronic faults on your bike, as well as your car....
And the low gear range is called "granny" gears...
Get a burly bike, either something all mountain or enduro. Don't get a downhill bike, waste of money unless you are doing pure downhill - they are useless for anything else.
Don't get an XC bike. No offense, but if you are 150 it won't work for you. Anything with around 150-160 mm of travel front and back will be fine.
Lots of bikes at that level, depends on how much you want to spend really.
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsperka
I've been looking at all that and smiling- my gadget obsession wants it all :)