Cycling Q - about to change from clips to cleats

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Originally Posted by Scallops

But if you can use clipless pedals properly, you won't be stuck to your bike! You can ride absolutely any conditions with cleats - and be able to release - it's just practice. And I have competed in 24 hr MTB Marathons and many other extreme cycling events!

And really, you should always pedal with the pedal's centre under the ball of the foot - if your bike is set up correctly, you shouldn't have issues with cramps. If you have had issues cramping, I'd suggest it's more likely hydration and or diet or because you are not positioning your pedal correctly with respect to your foot. ;)

These bio mechanical issues are well known and part of any coach's training. I'd try them (clipless pedals) again, set up correctly, and see how you go. :)

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Agree. Also, there are other options - like the combination flat/platform and SPD pedals. You can use them as SPDs with SPD shoes, or flats with normal shoes if you really want to. The increased efficiency with SPDs when climbing is amazing.

I started out in XC with SPDs - like them and still have them. However when I started doing more DH and FR riding, I switched to flats for the extra control on jumps and descents. For my (short distance) commute to work, I find the flats handy, as I don't need to change shoes.

horses for courses IMHO...
in fact I just bought a pair of SIDI's and Look Keo 2 Carbon pedals myself for the roadie :)

Oz prices are nuts for this stuff - buy online if you know your shoe size!

try wiggle.co.uk or probikekit.com for starters :) if your LBS is within say 10-15% of the online price, then ok but most seem to be 40-50% higher unfortunately...

If your going down the MTB shoe/pedal route, check this out. Got it emailed to me today.

As stated above check online for bargains overseas. even when I had my shop I still bought stuff from O/S as some gear was cheaper than getting it at wholesale here.

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Originally Posted by EchiDna

Oz prices are nuts for this stuff - buy online if you know your shoe size!

try wiggle.co.uk or probikekit.com for starters :) if your LBS is within say 10-15% of the online price, then ok but most seem to be 40-50% higher unfortunately...

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Yeah, totally agree. Although it is a little tough on our LBSs, I always buy my stuff from the UK.

I can post a few good ones if anyone is interested.... usual suspects, Ribble, Parkers, Chain Reaction etc. :)

Hi Scouse.

I am a professional cycling and mtb coach and am happy to give you some guidence in this matter so let me know and I will PM you. In short though you should be looking at road shoes and pedals and not MTB ones as they give far superior support for the type of riding you are doing. No dramas buying pedals on line but buy your shoes from your LBS as it is imperitive that they are the exact fit other wise you run the risk of ligament and joint damage. There are many different pedal types available with pros and cons to all and I am happy to send you some information on the most popular types including look, time, speedplay if you like. cheers JP

Thanks JP.

Bugger, I was going to pick up my MTB shoes & pedals this afternoon after the advice in here.
Will the road shoes make that much difference?
I'm quite happy sticking to toe clips but the pedals are wearing out my shoes rather quickly these days :( .

Hi Scott.
Yes they will make that much difference. A MTB shoe and pedal system is designed to engage and disengage more frequently as you spend more time disengaging out of them to run up or down slippery slopes, through sand and water crossings. You also have irregular cadence on a mountain bike and spend alot of time out of the seat manipulating the bicycle under you so the shoe / pedal connection needs to be more flexible. A road pedal shoe is designed to specifically transfer power in the most efficient manner as you are always driving the bicycle biomechanically. That is why they have a bigger and better platform for your shoe to engage so you have more support. The arguement the mtb pedals are easier to engagedue to being double sided is a myth as it is more to do with the correct technique. This is because a road pedal is wieghted so that it is in the same position every time you stop so that you only have to use the same technique every time you move off. If you are not engaging or have to look down to engage a road shoe/pedal then your technique is wrong - this is easily adjusted with 2 or 3 very short training drills. The reason I suggested the road shoe/pedal combination is because you said you are riding home from work and doing some recreational riding on a road bike up to 150km. If you were going to the markets and doing alot of walking or you were travelling through a forrest on the way home on a mtb I would recommend the mtb shoe pedal system. You need to buy a shoe with a firm sole but ensure it is mated to your foot type and not to your favorite colour. It may feel a little uncomfortable at first but will ensure many years of trouble free cycling as it will help with the transfer of power to the pedals. Keeping in mind they will strech a little (as there is no clip and toe strap the top of the shoe takes all the force of the upstroke) hope this helps a little. cheers JP

OK, thanks for the info.

I called into my LBS last night & bit the bullet. I spoke to them about what/how I ride & they recommended a touring shoe, the Shimano RT31. It's the same construction as a road shoe but the cleat is tucked out of the way so they can be walked in. They didn't have my size in stock so I pick them up on Friday.

Along with these, I went with the A530 pedals.

I'm sure they will make a big difference & I'm looking forward to using them next week (but I'll practice on the weekend clipping/unclipping on a soft surface before hitting the road ;)).



Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it's been a big help.

I had my first run today with the new shoes & pedals. I didn't think they were making much of a difference initially until I hit a hill. You can really notice the difference when climbing, especially out of the seat.

Even with the 38deg heat this arvo & a side wind, I beat my best time home by around 5min & about 7-8 min quicker than usual.

Good stuff mate.
Concentrate on an action where you make out you wipe poo off the bottom of the shoe on the downstroke and than you pull up. Both on the Left and Right leg.
Forget pushing down for a while.
Aim for a cadence of 90 and once settled, try taking one foot out and ride with one leg in for 2 min and see how that goes.
At 1st you may feel like the foot is very jerky so concentrate on pulling up and getting the motion to smooth out and than alternate.
At ligths, unclip on LHS so you leaning away from cars going past you on the right.
Keep a constant pedal up to maintain speed and use the gears, they are your friend, aim for a leg speed(cadence) of 90.

Experiment a bit with seat height also if the shop has not done so already, and make sure cleats are not set so they sit under middle of foot, totally wrong.
Should be under ball of foot as said previously.

Oh and have fun, geta heart rate monitor too and work in the magic 150-160 bpm mark.
getting too serious?

Just have a good time and happy riding.