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Looks like you have a bit of work for you there with rusty chassis rail. You should hit it with some cold gal before painting, its may not be a good as real gal but if it helps stop the rust then its all good in my book. With the bits i have painted, its best to do it when its warm, but still worked out ok in the colder months just took longer to dry.
The chassis rail is not rusted cal only the one section which I have already noted further up...is this what you mean (the bit in the second picture)?Quote:
Originally Posted by cal415
there is hardly even surface rust on the chassis all the brown stuff you can see in the pics is dirt.:)
I think shonky and Isuzutoo will back me up on how clean the chassis is apart from that little section where the foot of the tray was sitting.
I'm having a problem with the cold too. I want to get some painting done but the -5 to 12 degree days were having are putting the brakes on the restoration. I have a wire brush attachment for the grinder but the vibes are incredible. Makes it a rotten job.
Looks great, what you've been doing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by korg20000bc
Thanks for the encouragement:)
yeah I'm hearing you about the brush attachment.. sometimes the tingling can go on for like 15mins after..I guess its because I'm not used to doing this sort of thing:)
well it looks like the rust is in the top of the chassis rail from those pics??
I don't know what to say really Mick.Quote:
Originally Posted by cal415
Its almost like people want me to have a rusty car that is a big job:(.
I wish people would just take my bloody word for it.
one section of rust on the top rail that is about 8/9" long which will hopefully be cut out and replaced very soon. Then the whole chassis will get painted. no i'm not going to bother putting Cold gal on simply because it has survived 40 years and still has paint on the chassis and is not rusted, so I don't see why It wont survive another 40.
What she said!
It really is only the two short sections of rust, where the tray mounts trapped moisture on the top of the chassis. Its a simpler repair than if the rear crossmember was rotten, which it isn't.
You can get anti-vibration gloves (hardware store perhaps), or just do a little bit at a time :)
Are the gloves really any good?
If they are I might get some.
Does anyone know the lowest temp you can really paint?
Haven't tried the gloves, but I can confirm that $1 Kmart gardening gloves make a negligable difference :D
I was wearing leather gloves when I was doing it, they are reasonably thick too....Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh