ok,that is good to know.since i have gotten my td5,i have remove the erg and also fitted a better fuel cooler(the original one is a fuel heater for when you live a cold climate like the UK,not in the Caribbean.
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ok,that is good to know.since i have gotten my td5,i have remove the erg and also fitted a better fuel cooler(the original one is a fuel heater for when you live a cold climate like the UK,not in the Caribbean.
OK,have done a few turns(8),i have just gotten it pass the 15 mark.it is going like a rocket now.will give it a few more just to get near the 17-18 mark.a total new land rover,since that tweak.
It should be around 17 standard mate.???Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbigrock
Regards Robbo
ok,i have an inter-cooler of 420mm by 200mm by 67mm,i know that is the not the size the guys normally used but can i still used,for sure it is bigger then the original.
If it fits I can't see why not.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbigrock
Regards
Robbo
When you shorten the rod on a D2 TD5, do you have to do this in conjunction with by-passing the boost modulator or can you leave that as is ? I had shortened a fair bit a few months back, but still using the modulator and have now wound back and find the car goes better this way ? I previously increased it up to 19psi but have now back to 15. Does maintaining the use of the modulator negate the effect of shortening the rod ?
Think I was being blonde ! Have shortened a little and goes better, but doesn't take much till hit overboost on the big hills !Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingooner
The D2 EU3 wastegate modulator stops the valve to the wastegate from opening under 15PSI but from there on the valve is open and the physical wastegate diaphragm position and the flap position determines how much boost is available.
I understand from Offtrack that its operation is more complex than that but the net result is that the modulator stops wastegate "creep" at low boost levels and so increases boost at any position under about 15PSI compared with having no modulator like a Defender.
I have my screw adjustment wound up to about 9 turns and the boost transition is seamless up to 20PSI on my gauge positioned near the MAP sensor. Car is 2002 TD5 Auto EU3.
Regards Philip A
Mine is at least partially covered by the heat shield. [bigsad]
Take it off. Give it a good spray with a proper penetrating oil ( Not WD , although that might work ) when cold. You can drive it, and in fact it may help if you do, but undo the bolts when it's cold. I've never put mine back on. I doubt it does much except prevent you putting your hand on the still hot manifold. I could be wrong about that, but I know it never prevented my second battery from getting hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot