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Thread: "Oliver" another 130 HCPU trailer build (idea inspired buy discowhite's)

  1. #11
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    the idea is to put the toyota in it's place















    being dragged along by a land rover

  2. #12
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    50SHS5 is a reasonable chassis choice, certainly will take a hiding!... but maybe need to give the draw bar more verticle support. Just to limit flex and fatigue in the A-frame and draw. You could either increase verticle section size (100x50) or perhaps run some ladder bracing using 16mm round bar?

    Im not in love with your choice of springs but you will learn

    Its nice to see another trailer project coming together!

    If I wasnt so lazy Id take some photos of the triangulated 4link boat trailer I glued together this morning!!!

    S

  3. #13
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    well i couldn't sit still today, my trailer was beckoning me..lol..........

    new axle in, and bolted on the tub for a little look see .....fits really well...but did find that the tub wasn't quite square.. , so had to do some fine adjustments to sit it on the chassis right , but all good and very happy



    added the axle and fitted the 265 rubber, same as the truck ...








    all coming to plan within the mm.....

  4. #14
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    Had some more fun today....hitch plate and jockey wheel in place, will all come off for painting, so decided try it on for size and line...found that there is a little to much flex for my liking (read only a little, but will need to beef up the center bar for the planed additions on the draw bar) He is going to need some weight, atm he's like a mouse on a hot coal box...we loaded it up with a few 100 plus kg persons and basically squashed the mouse ..but it early day yet....still need to add draw bar box spare wheel, Jerri's and all the pieces back together ... other than that he is exactly has i planed atm.....





    Love the way he stands behind the truck....look even better than l hoped..







    cheers

  5. #15
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    Took him for a spin and decided to test out the turning circle.....the disco isn't know for a good turning circle, so didn't want it limited buy the addition of a trailer that was limited buy its turning circle as well...





    cheers

  6. #16
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    If you want to brace up the 50SHS vertically then the easiest solution will be building a ladder from M16 rod beneath the two A-frame lengths. Space them 100mm from the underside of the 50SHS with ladders at 600 centres. Run the ladders from hitch plate all the way to spring hangers.

    The whole "mouse on a hot coal box" is a function of the short overall length leaf springs. It just is the way that it is... The solutions are many and varied but none of them include what the "trailer industry" consider standard!!!!! Show me a vehicle with a front or rear axle load that weighs ~750kg that is using a leaf spring that measures ~800mm in length. That should give you some clues as to the suitability of short leaves for load carrying and handling. Sure it "works" by keeping the wheels from hitting the guards but then again some would argue that a big mac is a nutritious meal?

    Either way mate you are having fun and learning. The overall design looks good and the trailer will serve you well until its failings will guide you towards "Mk II" which is always an improvement!!!!!

    Steve

  7. #17
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    Did a bit more today, welded in some hangers to protect the corners of the tub ......



    also gave the tub a clean up and gave it a lashing of underbody paint to tidy it up and to give some more protection.....



    Cheers

  8. #18
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    A bit more done today......as said a few days ago we strengthened up the draw bar buy adding in another piece of 50x50 tabbed in and seem welded at intervals of every 500 or so ....has worked a treat, once again, thanks for the advice on this ..

    welded up the frame for the draw bar box and reinforced mount for the spare....the whole box will be clad in al tread plate and door will be as the same as the previous idea above out of 4mm tread plate .....got a hold of a three jerry can rack for the front of the box and, will have to post a pick when we get there ..... onto cladding on the weekend and then clean up, and on to painting...also added the bike rack hitch to the rear of the trailer for the kids bikes, .....









    cheers

  9. #19
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    Been waiting for your update! Coming together now and looking good!
    I like you design of front box, nice lines and will prevent hangups at the front of the box when winding amongst tight tracks.

    Hope Im not too rude but a couple of suggestions.

    -Buddying up the 50SHS has helped but you still may have fatigue issues where the second SHS tapers, as well as where the outer arms flex at the tub.. M16 roundbar is stupidly cheap, run a length 100mm away from each of the outer rails on the underside from the spring hanger all the way to the hitch plate. Will give good flexion support and they double as skids if you ever have to drag the trailer with no jocky. See dodgy paint drawing for the idea.

    -Your 25SHS box and wheel carrier may need some triangulation despite the relatively thick cladding. Id be running a diagonal brace from each lower corner to the wheel support centre upper corner. And then depending on door design and compartments some diagnonals from front to back. Otherwise all the bracing will be a function of your cladding fixation which if you use say Sika and M6 through bolts may be okay but diagonals from 2SHS will be cheaper! Then you can just rivet the panels on?
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Been waiting for your update! Coming together now and looking good!
    I like you design of front box, nice lines and will prevent hangups at the front of the box when winding amongst tight tracks.

    Hope Im not too rude but a couple of suggestions.

    -Buddying up the 50SHS has helped but you still may have fatigue issues where the second SHS tapers, as well as where the outer arms flex at the tub.. M16 roundbar is stupidly cheap, run a length 100mm away from each of the outer rails on the underside from the spring hanger all the way to the hitch plate. Will give good flexion support and they double as skids if you ever have to drag the trailer with no jocky. See dodgy paint drawing for the idea.

    -Your 25SHS box and wheel carrier may need some triangulation despite the relatively thick cladding. Id be running a diagonal brace from each lower corner to the wheel support centre upper corner. And then depending on door design and compartments some diagnonals from front to back. Otherwise all the bracing will be a function of your cladding fixation which if you use say Sika and M6 through bolts may be okay but diagonals from 2SHS will be cheaper! Then you can just rivet the panels on?
    Mate thanks for the advice, much appreciated

    am procrastinating over more bracing for the box, thinking of running a few pieces of angel iron to the front and rear of the box to add a shelf through the middle of it this may give it some more bracing??...the tyre mount has a piece of 8mm steel plate between the two bars running front to rear of the mount and the tub mount has been modded to bolt through the cladding and the plate .... i see you point about the draw bar, but I'm going to give it a run and see how she holds up, I'm 130kg, my BIL is 100 and my younger bro is 120..we all stood on the draw bar after the bracing was done and it didn't more and cm ...so failing the trial ....ill probably add you idea in at a later date ....

    cheers

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