Thread: "Oliver" another 130 HCPU trailer build (idea inspired buy discowhite's)

Final coat done ...came up a treat, very happy.............. thanks to the BIL'S painting skills....

now for the putting back together, lights, wireing, hitch bolted back on and get it back on its skates....

a few picks of the finished ..

















The base of the tub will be clad in rhino seal at a later date,, so didnt give it a real hard coat....but all in all the bil did a fantastic job, thanks mate

cheers

Well talk about full steam ahead, we had ea spurt of energy today and tried to finish off what we could, must be keen to get it on the road.....rego tomorrow after my Bil hooks up the lights , and give everything another tighten over....

bolted the hitch back on, bolted down the jerry can holder, bolted the jockey wheel back on and bolted the spare mount down ...





attached some heavy duty mud flaps, might need chain to bring them back a bit ,haven't decided as yet...



Bolted the tail steps back in ,and the Bil spent time putting as he call them ..the boo-bi lights...together and attached the reflectors and light inserts, fidely work so thanks Bro...

Coming along nicely.....how did you go with the light wiring??

Mrs hh

worked on the pinch weld for the doors...found that to get the pinch weld to come around smothly, l needed to cut a 45degree round corner of the right angel (thanks for the advice recived in my thread on this issue in the general section) worked really well .....







finished the doors (thanks sis for your help) and inserted the compression locks....very happy with the finish...









cheers

because we planed ahead, running the wiring was a pop, went thought the center of pre drilled hole in the front of the draw bar and ran straight up the middle of the draw bar made it a whole lot nicer finish ...





dummy fit of the tail gate, will need to add the new seal tomorrow and bolt it in ....love the way it came up considering the big dent i had to deal with ....love the end look



thats almost it guys, a few more things to finish off, will take some more picks when she is on the road..... took a few love shots , hope you like

Originally Posted by The ho har's

Coming along nicely.....how did you go with the light wiring??

Mrs hh

No ...Not as yet ....the lights are all working, apart from the stop lights....they are alight but dont light briter when the brake is applied??, think it might be an earthing problem?, any ideas guys and gals??

Cheers

I assume the stop light bulbs are either bulbs with a single filament of I think about 21 watts each, or bulbs having two filaments, where one filament is brighter than the other, the stop lamp filament being the 21 watt filament.

To check the trailer wiring, I would just apply +12VDC from a battery directly to the wire that is supposed to feed the stop light filaments; run the ground back to the battery so that you know you have a good circuit.

I presume that both stop light filaments will function properly so this probably means the solution is either with the ground between the trailer and the tow vehicle or the tow vehicle plug, (or trailer plug).

I expect the ground between trailer and tow vehicle is OK as you say that the other lights appear as they should.

The problem then comes down to how the brake lights are wired on the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Most EU spec brake lights are seperate filaments from the signal light filaments. Most North American spec vehicles share the signal light filaments with the brake lights. In other words, you will have either two brake lights on or one brake light and one signal light functioning at the same time with the NAS wiring setup.

If the trailer setup is different from the tow vehicle, then that can be a problem - not insurmountable, but a bit of a challenge.

If both the trailer and tow vehicle are wired the same, then the problem is probably in the conlectors, or at least solvable at the connectors - or it is just a ground thing with one of the trailer lights. I say one, as usually one bulb is ground OK and the other, not so, so that side of the circuit tends to act as a ground and things do not work very well but are hard to trace.

Also you might try different trailer bulbs as I have seen defective new bulbs and finding that is near impossible as the bulbs look good. This is the best first place to start - replace the bulbs as new defective is not uncommon given that most stuff comes from China now.

Originally Posted by bbyer

I assume the stop light bulbs are either bulbs with a single filament of I think about 21 watts each, or bulbs having two filaments, where one filament is brighter than the other, the stop lamp filament being the 21 watt filament.

To check the trailer wiring, I would just apply +12VDC from a battery directly to the wire that is supposed to feed the stop light filaments; run the ground back to the battery so that you know you have a good circuit.

I presume that both stop light filaments will function properly so this probably means the solution is either with the ground between the trailer and the tow vehicle or the tow vehicle plug, (or trailer plug).

I expect the ground between trailer and tow vehicle is OK as you say that the other lights appear as they should.

The problem then comes down to how the brake lights are wired on the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Most EU spec brake lights are seperate filaments from the signal light filaments. Most North American spec vehicles share the signal light filaments with the brake lights. In other words, you will have either two brake lights on or one brake light and one signal light functioning at the same time with the NAS wiring setup.

If the trailer setup is different from the tow vehicle, then that can be a problem - not insurmountable, but a bit of a challenge.

If both the trailer and tow vehicle are wired the same, then the problem is probably in the conlectors, or at least solvable at the connectors - or it is just a ground thing with one of the trailer lights. I say one, as usually one bulb is ground OK and the other, not so, so that side of the circuit tends to act as a ground and things do not work very well but are hard to trace.

Also you might try different trailer bulbs as I have seen defective new bulbs and finding that is near impossible as the bulbs look good. This is the best first place to start - replace the bulbs as new defective is not uncommon given that most stuff comes from China now.

Thanks mate, all came down to having to earth both stops rather than in a circuit if that makes sense, been running fine now on many different vehicles without issues....

cheers