Bundalene's Puma project

**Bundalene** · 18th November 2010, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by one_iota

Erich,

Great work!

The heat eminating from the transfer/exhaust area and being felt in the seat box is a real issue. I noticed this again on mine after the trip from Sydney to the Abercrombie NP on the weekend.

Do you think that it would be possible to install the heat insulation without taking the body off?

I had a look under our TD5 Defender and there seems enough room to install heat insullation in the open center seat box area. The trick will be to clean the existing surface first. Easiest done from a hoist. I won't be able to answer definitively until I put the body back on the Puma

Strange, the tunnel section of the TD5 already has insullation underneath but the Puma doesn't.

One of the reasons for going to these measures is that our TD5 gets quite hot around the front edge of the seat box - around the handbrake and same spot on the passenger side.

I have already had the phone call from our daughter "when can you insulate our 130?" LOL

Erich

**Bundalene** · 18th November 2010, 04:56 PM

I had a thought about the access through the firewall for additional wiring, which is relatively easy at this stage.

Planned extras involving access to the dash:

Fuel pumps for the sill tanks 2 wires + 0v
Fuel filter water trap warning 2 wires + 0v
Fuel gauges ? 3 wires (2 signal 1 +v, 1 0v)
Lockers 4 wires
Rear work lights 1 wire + 0v
Volt meter 1 wire + 1 0v
Cruise control - when it become affordable - all required signals already in the area.

Driving lts and UHF radio already installed.

I plan to add an EGT gauge but this will mean running an additional thermo-couple cable at a later date as I don't want to drill and tap my manifold at this stage.

I ran 2 x 6 core and earth cables through the firewall for these (.75 sqmm) and put a plug on each in the engine bay. (similar to trailer cable). This way I will be able to connect onto either end when the time comes.

Things such as fridge, aux, HF radio and air compressor wiring will be dealt with separately.

This cable will be tucked under the right guard somewhere.

Passenger side, not sure where this will end up?

Also inslalled the passenger side. I found the sound Nuwave material difficult to work with on vertical surfaces. On horizontal surfaces it is excellent.

I finished covering the Nuwave material with a layer of the sticky back material which holds all in place nicely

Erich

**one_iota** · 18th November 2010, 07:19 PM

Erich,

With all that sound insulation it will be so quiet you'll be able to hear what Sheila is thinking.....is that wise?

What did you have in mind for the fuel filter water trap?

**Bundalene** · 18th November 2010, 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by one_iota

Erich,

With all that sound insulation it will be so quiet you'll be able to hear what Sheila is thinking.....is that wise?

What did you have in mind for the fuel filter water trap?

Might be able to install a hands free phone.

I installed an earlier TD5 Disco fuel water warning unit out of a Series2 Disco in our 2006 TD5 Defender and it is just peace of mind. I put up a thread a while ago and will see if I can find it.

Erich

**dmdigital** · 18th November 2010, 10:05 PM

The Puma's fuel filter incorporates a water trap which isn't as good as a separate unit would be. More importantly the filter is 5micron which is now becoming the recommended filtration on diesel for plant and equipment. I'd look at leaving the filter intact.

**Bundalene** · 19th November 2010, 06:18 AM

Originally Posted by dmdigital

The Puma's fuel filter incorporates a water trap which isn't as good as a separate unit would be. More importantly the filter is 5micron which is now becoming the recommended filtration on diesel for plant and equipment. I'd look at leaving the filter intact.

I am going to do something, having read a number of reports about water getting through the filter and into the system, unless this was the case with very early Pumas.

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich

**AJSLRD** · 19th November 2010, 07:46 AM

Erich,

I have a filter / water trap system on the auxiliary fuel tank I built under the tray on my 130, works well if I have to take on some fuel from unreliable sources.
I just simply pump the fuel through the filter / trap straight into the main tank.
There has been water in the trap once or twice, I just drain it off, smile at the investment as it saved me a bucket of grief.
I generally like most I buy fuel from high turn over outlets.

Great work, keep posting...

Allen

**lebanon** · 19th November 2010, 02:18 PM

Hi Erich,

I thank you for the information on the insulating material.

I am not sure to find the same product over here in Lebanon, I will do my search because it is vital for well being of the kids. The V8 is turning the inside of the 110 into an oven.

I still can't imagine how and why land rover didn't insulate their cars? especially that their largest markets were in tempered areas of the world. Another mystery.

Pat

**dullbird** · 19th November 2010, 05:09 PM

Originally Posted by Bundalene

I am going to do something,

having read a number of reports about water getting through the filter and into the system, unless this was the case with very early Pumas.

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich

I think it was more of a case that the filter was probably overwhelmed.

**Bundalene** · 20th November 2010, 04:22 PM

I had a good look at the fuel system this afternoon. I stand to be corrected on any of the info below.

Firstly, the fuel filter. To replace this it is a ¼ turn anti clockwise and then pull down. As mentioned in an earlier post, the top of the filter starts to rust. This is because it is exposed to the outside elements, including water, …. The actual seal is inside the center section

The main fuel line is 8mm ID and 10mm OD, the return line is 6mm ID and 8mm OD. To remove the fuel lines, press on the blue or coloured tab and to release from a flange and pull off the line. Sealing is achieved with an O ring inside the fitting.

Fuel enters the filter from the outside opening of the center of the filter housing and goes to the engine through the center pipe as in the pic below (this is taken of the filter housing from underneath)

To drain out water from the filter, get a clear glass jar, hold this under the filter and open the drain valve at the bottom of the filter for a short time. Check the jar for water globules. If you don't use a jar, the fuel will hit the trailing are and run down towards the rear.

The way I understand the fuel system works:

Fuel is sucked out of the tank and through the filter via the 10mm line. Then onto the engine. Excess fuel is returned via the 8mm line to the fuel (cooler / heater) and back to the filter. This is then mixed with fuel from the tank and sent back to the engine, with excess draining back to the tank (I am not 100% sure about this)

View from above of the fuel cooler.

View of the top of the fuel tank.

I thought it would be a simple task to install the water trap sensor from an early TD5 Disco into the Puma filter, but alas, the TD5 Disco thread is 8mm and the PUMA filter has a 3/8 UNC or 3/8 whitworth thread (same TPI)

I have been searching for a supplier of the fuel line fittings and as far as I can find, they are either a US product from ‘TI Automotive’ or ‘Dorman Products’ part? I have found an interesting kit on the internet but don’t know if it is compatible with these lines. Has anyone any info on a local supplier of these?

Item # W43A0220-0234 on TI Automotive, Global Fluid Carrying Systems

See the fuel line repair kit
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...4FuelLines.pdf

Erich

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